Strapped Regency Petticoat... a mini tutorial

Many years ago my friend Katherine showed me how to make this petticoat. I asked her if she would mind me posting a mini tutorial on it's construction, and she happily agreed.

Katherine is quite small... I call her 2/3rds scale, so this is her pattern but made to be me sized. I'm a typical American size 10, and am 5 ft 3in tall. That being said, my underbust is 36 inches and my petticoats length is 42 inches.

To make this petticoat you will need:
2 yards of linen (I used 50 inch wide)
4 sets of hooks and eyes
your measurements.... underbust and skirt length ( measure from your underbust, down your side to your ankle bone>>> you don't want this petticoat to be seen under your skirt or to be to the ground.)

If you want to put pin tucks at the hem of your petticoat add 1 inch per pintuck.... make your pintucks 1/2 an inch wide. I put 2 pin tucks at the bottom of my petticoat so I added 2 inches making the total length of my skirt panel 45 inches.... please remember to also add 1 inch for seam allowances at the top and bottom of the skirt. So for example if I wanted my petticoat not to have any pintucks I would cut my skirt panels at 43 inches.

Note about cutting Linen:
to find true grain in linen, find a thread at the salvage edge and pull... the thread may break, that's o.k. find it again, and pull until you have removed the thread from salvage to salvage. You will now have a straight line that runs along your material from salvage to salvage. Cut along that line. You will be using this method to cut all the pieces for this petticoat. You will be cutting 5 pieces.

#1 & # 2 skirt pieces. (bolt width x skirt length.... remember to add for both seam allowance and if your adding pin tucks)
#3 waistband (3 inches x underbust length + 3 inches... my under bust is 36 so I cut my waistband at 39 inches)
#4 & #5 shoulder straps (3 inches x bolt width... I suggest you cut one bolt width in half, so that the shoulder strap is considerably longer than you will need. That way you can simply attach the shoulder strap in back, put the petticoat on and mark the correct length for yourself. However my straps are 21inches if that helps in anyway.)


Construction:

Mark your Waistband

Pin your waistband on at your underbust. You want to have the ends so that the pin is secured so that the backside edge is 1/2 an inch from the pin (seam allowance) and on the front side is 2 1/2 inches from the pin (seam allowance plus placket closure). Turn the waistband so that the closure is toward your RIGHT side back. You dont want it at center back, but you want it to be about a handwidth or so from your armpit. Now with a water soluable pen, mark were you think logically your side seam would be if you were wearing modern clothes. This doesn't have to be perfect... it's simply the place that YOU think would be the bestplace to start your skirt gathers. Next mark center front.... that's right there in the center between your boobs.

ok... now take off the waistband.
Pin the ends together just as it was on your body
make a mark at 2 1/2inches on the waistbands placket side... this should be right where your pin is.
fold at your center front mark.
match up the sides and pin through both layers of fabric at the mark you made for the begining of your skirt gathers. Make a mark at that pin on the fabrics other side.
fold the fabric all the way to the other edge... where the fabric naturally folds is your center back. Mark your center back as well. now take a quick measurement from center front to your skirt gathers starting point. Write that down.

Mark your skirt panels
Make a quick decision what panel is front and what is back.
both panels you need to mark center. The front however you also need to mark the begining of your skirt gathers.... make sure you mark that on both LEFT sand RIGHT sides of the fabric.

Construct your skirt....
right sides together, on the wearers LEFT sew all the way down the length of the side seam. On the wearers RIGHT leave 7-12 inches open at the top. You can if you choose roll the salvage edges and have a proper placket.

hem the skirt and put in pin tucks .... I'm not going to include that.... there are lots of tutorials out there for pin tucks.

Run 2 rows of gathering stitches, 1/4 of an inch and 1/2 an inch from the raw top edge. Your going to do this in two places.... one on the front skirt panel RIGHT SIDE  from the placket edge your "start skirt gathering here" mark, and another on the front skirt panel LEFT SIDE  from the "start skirt gathering here" mark to the back panel through the center back all the way to the back placket edge.

Attach waistband to skirt

decide what side is going to be the inside edge of your waistband.  On that edge sew a stay stitch 1/2 inch from the raw edge. Fold the waistband in half horizontally and using a 1/2 inch seam allowance close up the waistbands side edges.

With the waisbands outside side to right side of skirt, match up all marks (front edge of placket, start skirt gathering, center front, start skirt gathering, center back, back edge of placket) pull gathering threads to match waistband length.

Sew waistband to skirt, stroke your gathers to keep them pretty. Fold the waistband along the stay stitching, and pin that edge to the skirts interior. you and eitherhand stitch the inside edge or stitch in the ditch.

Attach 4 sets of hooks and eyes at the closing placket.

Shoulder straps

fold the shoulder straps horizontally right sides together. Using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, turn the tubes right sides out and press. Sew the shoulder straps 2 1/2 inches on either side of the center back mark.

Put the petticoat on and find where to place the shoulder straps in front. You will want them towards the sides. Sew the shoulder straps in place and your petticoat is ready to wear.

Finished things

I've been very busy... and really shouldn't be taking the time out to edit these pictures and such... but I've been putting this off for too long. It really needs to be posted.

Regency Fairy

First off is the Regency Fairy. I took a million photos, that have been lost. I let my son borrow my camera, and I think the pictures from faire are no more. It's a good thing my friend took pictures! lol! So I did a bit of pilfering and photoshop-ing and now have these pictures to share:

 I bought a bottle of bubbles. I like the picture to the right, as you can see my new bracelets.

With wings.... you can see my sandals. I found a painting of a regency lady wearing some very similar to these. I was glad to have worn them, it was rather warm that day!

Without the wings.. you can see how the wings are tied to my stays with ribbon. I am glad I decided to do this. Although my stays are a bit visible, the weight of the wings was better carried by doing this. My friend had a neck ache the next day because she only tied the wings around her shoulders.

The dress pattern is: Period Impressions #464
My stays: Past Patterns #38
I'm NOT wearing a petticoat... soooo skanky.
My chemise: Shift I shortened the sleeves

The Second of Three Victorians

This is my Blue Bonnet.... the pattern is: The Clara Christine

I made the pattern for this dress... but mostly it's from... Patterns of Fashion 1 and 2

and would you look at that 2 posts to this blog in one day!

Regency Fairy... A wing Tutorial

My friend Katherine and I are in the sad position of being a pair of historical costumers in a landscape full of cos-players and fantasy costumers. To be honest though we have both costumed characters from movies, but for the most part, it's all about historical technique and construction.

She and I go to the Ren Faire most years. We try to make costumes relevant to the time period. We had planned on making rural Flemish gowns this year.. But wool?!?! Multiple layers?!? At 100'? Oh no. I just can't.

So Katherine and I were joking
around and came up with the idea of wearing light and airy Regency Gowns to Faire, but because it's Faire (not the most historically accurate event) wearing fairy wings had real appeal.

Being the big nerd that I am, I did a search for Regency Fairies and found this book..








It's a lovely little book, full of Regency Faries. I used the pictures in this book as a starting point for my wings.

As luck and serendipity would have it my friend MirthFairy is very knowledgeable in the construction of fairy wings. She even started her own fairy guild at the Ren Faire! She agreed to give Katherine and I, a crash course in wing making. It was very fun and educational... Plus I set out a pretty Tea. :)








No... I don't bake. Pic-link :)

With the information I learned and the magic of google I hitched a plan, and surprise surprise it was rather successful!

Like I said, I wanted my wings to have a realistic insect like look...
I found on etsy, and eBay... artist making printed wings on transparency film, for ball jointed dolls. They have dragonfly, cicada, and moth like veins through the wings. I was worried though that if I printed wings in a human size and tried to mount the printed transparency on iridescent cellophane the ink would smear... messy. So I decided cut work would do, even if it's not as realistic.

HOW TO MAKE CUT WORK FAIRY WINGS

You will need:

a self healing cutting mat
exacto knife
Hammer and a board to hammer on
steam iron
small box to spray adhesive
A needle tool... Or a thin screwdriver.

spray paint (black) for metal
spray adhesive
black shower curtain liner
clear cellophane
iridescent cellophane
galvanized wire


First thing you'll do is draw your pattern... Or copy mine. :) you might want to copy 2 as a guide for placing your cut work.









Sorry about the glare...
I drew mine on old Christmas wrapping paper.

Next you'll need to bend your wire frame.









Then smash the center section with a hammer... Best part of this project! HULK SMASH!







Paint the frame... Do this outside so you don't asphyxiate yourself. :( .... Hang it out on the line so it will dry... And eat lunch now. :)








Now layer your wing diagram over 2 layers of shower curtain
























Now cut out the wing








The cut wings will look kinda like this
















Set up your adhesive station








And spray!!! But don't go crazy breathing is good... And its wicked sticky.








Your going to apply this cut shape to a layer of clear cellophane... This is kinda tricky. I'm good at this kind of tedious arranging... But if you aren't I suggest that you print out a pattern of the original drawing and use it as a guide. You can use a needle tool or a small screwdriver to manipulate the cut work.... it's infinitely better than your fingers! :)

Next you'll spray the correct wire wing section with adhesive also spray the cut work/clear cellophane assembly with adhesive withe the cut work side up...and apply the cut work side to the wire wing. Cut another section of clear cellophane and encase the wire wing. Turn on your iron... And using a TEFLON COVER!!!! I don't think it's possible to do this project without this... If you don't have one experiment with your iron on different settings to see what sealing and god forbid MELTING effects you will achieve... Otherwise use a heat embossing tool.









Once you have all the cut work applied use your iron or heat embossing tool and shrink the cellophane to the wire frame.

Now... I wanted my wings to have an iridescent effect... You don't have to do this part if you don't want to....

Spray the wing








Apply the iridescent















Iron... I messed about with steam for texture.









Trim off the extra cellophane.









Now the middle wire section is a mess... So cover it up with some fabric, and bows... And maybe a big ol silk rose. :) mine ties on with ribbon... Mine came from The Ribbon Store... Do go there!

All done!

I maybe might wear this dress... or make another... we will see! :)



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A Strawberry Recticule

This post is for a friend of mine that requested this pattern. It's not historically accurate, it's just freaking cute. There are historical hand bags shaped like fruit though, but this pattern is of my own design and uses modern patterning and sewing techniques.

to make this little bag you will need:
14" x the bolt length of red or pink silk taffeta.
20" x the bolt length of green silk taffeta.
black seed beads
a cord for the draw string
36" of ribbon for handles... I used my green silk to back my trim... just to make it stronger
perhaps a tassel to finish off the bottom of the bag.

this is the finished bag:

 

The only "tutorial" I'm going to give for this project is to remind you about gussets... the construction isn't difficult but it's important if you want a clean finished project is to START and STOP sewing on the X's... otherwise the bag just won't go together well...

I didn't mark 5 things on the pattern...

1. The center line... it runs down the center of the bag pattern piece from tip to tip
2. the placement of the straps... they go inside the bag at the center line about 1/2 underneath drawstring casing.
3. the placement of the eyelet holes for the drawstring... you will place 1 eyelet hole 1/4" on either side of the center line, in the center of the drawstring casing
4. The fact that the lining and the outside fabric DON'T MATCH UP!! They are offset by half... match the edge of the outside fabric to the center line of the lining... you can see this in the picture above.
5. The placement for the seed beads are marked with X's on the pattern.

and without further ado... Here's the pattern! :D

again just like the last pattern... it's in inches... 1 inch squared.

Regency Drawn Bonnet... Pattern and Tutorial #3

At this point in your project you should have...

all pieces cut
the tip sewn to it's lining and gaged to 14 7/8
Crown/Brim hemmed and all 13 cording channels done

The Crown/Brim pattern is marked with a broken line along it's center. The center front, and center back are marked with an X. It's a good idea to fold and press your linen along this line so that when you draw up your cords the center remains straight and the bonnet doesn't become twisted. You can also use your favorite method of marking your fabric (pen, chalk, thread tack.) As your drawing up your cords you can use a straight edge to maintain the center line.

Now we draw the cording through the channels.

I used an upholstery needle to do the job. I bought a set of old stock 12" double points on eBay. You could use this tool, or a tapestry needle, a ball pointed bodkin, or a Fast Turn or Quick turn tool.

It's a simple matter of threading your tool with your crochet cotton and pulling the yarn through it's channel. Do all the channels. Secure one end of the yarn first with a knot and then with either hand sewing, or back tack multiple times on your machine. Now adjust the cords lengths. I gave you the list of cord lengths last post, but here is the list again:

14 7/8
15 3/4
17 7/8
18
19 3/8
20 5/8
21 1/4
22 1/4
23 7/8
24 5/8
26 7/8
28 1/2
29 5/8

Once again, just to emphasize, make sure that you maintain the center line and that the cords length is evenly divided between the left and right sides of the center line.

Once you have got all your cords measured secure the end with a knot and a back tack on the machine or by hand.

Now we attach the tip to the Crown/Brim.

The tip has been gaged or cartridge pleated to 14 7/8". As you notice this is the same length as the first cord (neck edge). The center of the tip should be marked with an X... or a pin, the C.B of the Crown/Brim is marked with an X. The X on the Crown/Brim C.B is on the cord, NOT on the fabrics edge. This is because the fabrics edge is in fact a ruffle. You will be sewing the gaged tip to the Crown/Brim along the first cord.

Next we will gather the tips neck edge. Mark the center of the tips neck edge (this will be the placement of ties C.B seam) The neck edges total length is 3 1/2"

Next gather the last 3 cords on the Crown/Brim to 1"(these are the longest cords, the face edge cords)... obviously do this on both sides. :D. Sorry, no picture.

Now you'll attach the tie.

Use a 1/2 seam allowance to attach the tie. With right sides together, match the ties C.B seam to the tips C.B. at X.

Now with your 1/8 rolled hem foot roll both sides of the ties edges that WON'T be attached to the bonnet... you should over lap the rolled hem and the 1/2" seam allowance a bit (and inch or so on either side??) so that the ties edge doesn't come unraveled there. This area will take the most strain because this is the place that the tie will be tied and untied every time you put the bonnet on.

Rolled hem foot tip:

Finger press the first fold in your fabric (about an inch in length), place your material under your foot and lower your needle into the pre-rolled section, raise the foot and pull the pre folded edge into your rolled hem foot. Make sure the pressure is set high on the pressure foot dial... this is so that your fabric doesn't slip around inside of the foot and make your rolled hem larger than you wanted. Or worse yet unevenly hemmed, or the fabric coming completely out of the foot and not making a hem at all.

The last thing to do is to finish off the tie. 

The tie does double duty as closure and neck edge facing.  All of the raw edges from the Crown/Brim, tip, and tie are folded up neatly into the tie.  Just fold over the seam allowance and place the folded edge to to the line of stitching that attached the tie to the bonnet. Use a hand whip stitch to attach the tie to the inside of the bonnet.

I added extra ties to my bonnet... I use them for my victorian bonnets and it really helps to keep the bonnet in place. Use a thin cord for the extra tie. The cord tie holds the bonnet in place and lets the real tie look pretty tied loosely. 

The last thing you'll do is starch the bonnet. Use liquid starch and press the bonnet's Brim/Crown flat.  The stiffer the bonnets brim the better!

So, that's that! You made a completely ridiculous bonnet! :D good times!