Regency Drawn Bonnet... Pattern and Tutorial #3

At this point in your project you should have...

all pieces cut
the tip sewn to it's lining and gaged to 14 7/8
Crown/Brim hemmed and all 13 cording channels done

The Crown/Brim pattern is marked with a broken line along it's center. The center front, and center back are marked with an X. It's a good idea to fold and press your linen along this line so that when you draw up your cords the center remains straight and the bonnet doesn't become twisted. You can also use your favorite method of marking your fabric (pen, chalk, thread tack.) As your drawing up your cords you can use a straight edge to maintain the center line.

Now we draw the cording through the channels.

I used an upholstery needle to do the job. I bought a set of old stock 12" double points on eBay. You could use this tool, or a tapestry needle, a ball pointed bodkin, or a Fast Turn or Quick turn tool.

It's a simple matter of threading your tool with your crochet cotton and pulling the yarn through it's channel. Do all the channels. Secure one end of the yarn first with a knot and then with either hand sewing, or back tack multiple times on your machine. Now adjust the cords lengths. I gave you the list of cord lengths last post, but here is the list again:

14 7/8
15 3/4
17 7/8
18
19 3/8
20 5/8
21 1/4
22 1/4
23 7/8
24 5/8
26 7/8
28 1/2
29 5/8

Once again, just to emphasize, make sure that you maintain the center line and that the cords length is evenly divided between the left and right sides of the center line.

Once you have got all your cords measured secure the end with a knot and a back tack on the machine or by hand.

Now we attach the tip to the Crown/Brim.

The tip has been gaged or cartridge pleated to 14 7/8". As you notice this is the same length as the first cord (neck edge). The center of the tip should be marked with an X... or a pin, the C.B of the Crown/Brim is marked with an X. The X on the Crown/Brim C.B is on the cord, NOT on the fabrics edge. This is because the fabrics edge is in fact a ruffle. You will be sewing the gaged tip to the Crown/Brim along the first cord.

Next we will gather the tips neck edge. Mark the center of the tips neck edge (this will be the placement of ties C.B seam) The neck edges total length is 3 1/2"

Next gather the last 3 cords on the Crown/Brim to 1"(these are the longest cords, the face edge cords)... obviously do this on both sides. :D. Sorry, no picture.

Now you'll attach the tie.

Use a 1/2 seam allowance to attach the tie. With right sides together, match the ties C.B seam to the tips C.B. at X.

Now with your 1/8 rolled hem foot roll both sides of the ties edges that WON'T be attached to the bonnet... you should over lap the rolled hem and the 1/2" seam allowance a bit (and inch or so on either side??) so that the ties edge doesn't come unraveled there. This area will take the most strain because this is the place that the tie will be tied and untied every time you put the bonnet on.

Rolled hem foot tip:

Finger press the first fold in your fabric (about an inch in length), place your material under your foot and lower your needle into the pre-rolled section, raise the foot and pull the pre folded edge into your rolled hem foot. Make sure the pressure is set high on the pressure foot dial... this is so that your fabric doesn't slip around inside of the foot and make your rolled hem larger than you wanted. Or worse yet unevenly hemmed, or the fabric coming completely out of the foot and not making a hem at all.

The last thing to do is to finish off the tie. 

The tie does double duty as closure and neck edge facing.  All of the raw edges from the Crown/Brim, tip, and tie are folded up neatly into the tie.  Just fold over the seam allowance and place the folded edge to to the line of stitching that attached the tie to the bonnet. Use a hand whip stitch to attach the tie to the inside of the bonnet.

I added extra ties to my bonnet... I use them for my victorian bonnets and it really helps to keep the bonnet in place. Use a thin cord for the extra tie. The cord tie holds the bonnet in place and lets the real tie look pretty tied loosely. 

The last thing you'll do is starch the bonnet. Use liquid starch and press the bonnet's Brim/Crown flat.  The stiffer the bonnets brim the better!

So, that's that! You made a completely ridiculous bonnet! :D good times!