tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21913692689094102372024-03-13T20:23:00.198-07:00TwilaTee, On a Mission to Costume the WorldTwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.comBlogger28125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-62886958206870725402015-09-07T00:57:00.000-07:002015-09-07T00:57:26.437-07:0018th Century Wig... a simple hackI've been a very bad blogger as of late. I've been doing mostly commission work, and EGLolita. The project that I'm going to share with you is for me, but is also in the style EGL. The community that I sometimes attend events with is having an Over the Top Tea. I've decided to do a rococo themed coord. To start that out I've decided to style an 18th century Tall Ship wig. <br />
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I started out with a copy of <a href="http://18thcenturyhair.com/">18th Century Hair</a>. I highly recommend that book. Lots of good information there. <br />
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I'm not going to go into step by step detail on how to make this wig, because you'll need to buy the book for that, however I am going to share how I "hacked" these instructions.<br />
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First off I started with an <a href="http://www.janetcollection.com/shop/black-pearl-full-lace-wigs/black-pearl-wig-gaga-wig">inexpensive full lace wig</a>. I decided on a lace front because I've dyed my hair hot pink and mint green... this would NOT blend into a wig well. so I chose a lace front to look as natural as possible. I've done non-lace before, and the hair line is particularly non-natural. So, on a lark I decided to try a lace, just to try it out. I like it. I only mention this because the book doesn't offer a lace wig as an option. So that right there is a little hack. from the same company, and in the same color # I bought an<a href="http://www.janetcollection.com/shop/noir-drawstring-everytime/noir-everytime-blackberry-draw-string"> elastic fall</a>.<br />
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The main part of this little hack has to do with the materials list given in the book... I didn't want to buy all that stuff... like lots of different weaving hair in different textures. I just thought the whole thing was a bit extreme... so here is what I did...<br />
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First, I put the lace front wig on a form and mapped out a pattern to make the wire form. If you have the book you'll notice that my form is considerably smaller than what is in the book, this is because I'm doing Lolita... I want over the top, but humorously, a real rococo ship wig is really, really, big, much bigger than I need.<br />
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The book would have you at this point cover the wire form with ratted weaving hair. I didn't want to buy more hair, so I instead first covered the form with black felt.<br />
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After I covered the form with felt, I sprayed it down with spray adhesive. Then I stuck polyfill to the back and sides of the form.<br />
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Once I had the shape I was looking for, I spray painted the poly fill flat black.<br />
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At this point I sewed the form to the wig, pulled apart the elastic fall, and used that hair to cover<br />
the back of the form, build the sausage curls and the loose curls at the base of the neck.<br />
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This is what the elastic fall looked like as I was taking it apart.</div>
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And here is the finished wig:</div>
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TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-49879474395857373712014-11-14T16:11:00.000-08:002014-11-14T16:45:06.084-08:00Strapped Regency Petticoat... a mini tutorialMany years ago my friend Katherine showed me how to make this petticoat. I asked her if she would mind me posting a mini tutorial on it's construction, and she happily agreed.<br />
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Katherine is quite small... I call her 2/3rds scale, so this is her pattern but made to be me sized. I'm a typical American size 10, and am 5 ft 3in tall. That being said, my underbust is 36 inches and my petticoats length is 42 inches.<br />
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To make this petticoat you will need:<br />
2 yards of linen (I used 50 inch wide)<br />
4 sets of hooks and eyes<br />
your measurements.... underbust and skirt length ( measure from your underbust, down your side to your ankle bone>>> you don't want this petticoat to be seen under your skirt or to be to the ground.)<br />
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If you want to put pin tucks at the hem of your petticoat add 1 inch per pintuck.... make your pintucks 1/2 an inch wide. I put 2 pin tucks at the bottom of my petticoat so I added 2 inches making the total length of my skirt panel 45 inches.... please remember to also add 1 inch for seam allowances at the top and bottom of the skirt. So for example if I wanted my petticoat not to have any pintucks I would cut my skirt panels at 43 inches.<br />
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Note about cutting Linen:<br />
to find true grain in linen, find a thread at the salvage edge and pull... the thread may break, that's o.k. find it again, and pull until you have removed the thread from salvage to salvage. You will now have a straight line that runs along your material from salvage to salvage. Cut along that line. You will be using this method to cut all the pieces for this petticoat. You will be cutting 5 pieces.<br />
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#1 & # 2 skirt pieces. (bolt width x skirt length.... remember to add for both seam allowance and if your adding pin tucks)<br />
#3 waistband (3 inches x underbust length + 3 inches... my under bust is 36 so I cut my waistband at 39 inches)<br />
#4 & #5 shoulder straps (3 inches x bolt width... I suggest you cut one bolt width in half, so that the shoulder strap is considerably longer than you will need. That way you can simply attach the shoulder strap in back, put the petticoat on and mark the correct length for yourself. However my straps are 21inches if that helps in anyway.)<br />
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Construction:<br />
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Mark your Waistband<br />
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Pin your waistband on at your underbust. You want to have the ends so that the pin is secured so that the backside edge is 1/2 an inch from the pin (seam allowance) and on the front side is 2 1/2 inches from the pin (seam allowance plus placket closure). Turn the waistband so that the closure is toward your RIGHT side back. You dont want it at center back, but you want it to be about a handwidth or so from your armpit. Now with a water soluable pen, mark were you think logically your side seam would be if you were wearing modern clothes. This doesn't have to be perfect... it's simply the place that YOU think would be the bestplace to start your skirt gathers. Next mark center front.... that's right there in the center between your boobs.<br />
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ok... now take off the waistband.<br />
Pin the ends together just as it was on your body<br />
make a mark at 2 1/2inches on the waistbands placket side... this should be right where your pin is.<br />
fold at your center front mark.<br />
match up the sides and pin through both layers of fabric at the mark you made for the begining of your skirt gathers. Make a mark at that pin on the fabrics other side.<br />
fold the fabric all the way to the other edge... where the fabric naturally folds is your center back. Mark your center back as well. now take a quick measurement from center front to your skirt gathers starting point. Write that down.<br />
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Mark your skirt panels<br />
Make a quick decision what panel is front and what is back.<br />
both panels you need to mark center. The front however you also need to mark the begining of your skirt gathers.... make sure you mark that on both LEFT sand RIGHT sides of the fabric.<br />
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Construct your skirt....<br />
right sides together, on the wearers LEFT sew all the way down the length of the side seam. On the wearers RIGHT leave 7-12 inches open at the top. You can if you choose roll the salvage edges and have a proper placket.<br />
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hem the skirt and put in pin tucks .... I'm not going to include that.... there are lots of tutorials out there for pin tucks.<br />
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Run 2 rows of gathering stitches, 1/4 of an inch and 1/2 an inch from the raw top edge. Your going to do this in two places.... one on the front skirt panel RIGHT SIDE from the placket edge your "start skirt gathering here" mark, and another on the front skirt panel LEFT SIDE from the "start skirt gathering here" mark to the back panel through the center back all the way to the back placket edge.<br />
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Attach waistband to skirt<br />
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decide what side is going to be the inside edge of your waistband. On that edge sew a stay stitch 1/2 inch from the raw edge. Fold the waistband in half horizontally and using a 1/2 inch seam allowance close up the waistbands side edges.<br />
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With the waisbands outside side to right side of skirt, match up all marks (front edge of placket, start skirt gathering, center front, start skirt gathering, center back, back edge of placket) pull gathering threads to match waistband length.<br />
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Sew waistband to skirt, stroke your gathers to keep them pretty. Fold the waistband along the stay stitching, and pin that edge to the skirts interior. you and eitherhand stitch the inside edge or stitch in the ditch.<br />
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Attach 4 sets of hooks and eyes at the closing placket.<br />
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Shoulder straps<br />
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fold the shoulder straps horizontally right sides together. Using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, turn the tubes right sides out and press. Sew the shoulder straps 2 1/2 inches on either side of the center back mark.<br />
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Put the petticoat on and find where to place the shoulder straps in front. You will want them towards the sides. Sew the shoulder straps in place and your petticoat is ready to wear.<br />
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<br />TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-78901995330483223932012-10-16T16:36:00.000-07:002012-10-16T16:39:08.959-07:00Making of... Tennis Dress #3Frances Grimble’s Bustle Fashions 1885-1887 has a pattern for a front apron that is very similar to LACMA’s Tennis Dress. Although that pattern overlaps much further in the front than I wanted. An overlap that far would make it impossible to have the skirt attached to the bodice as the LACMA’s Tennis Dress is.<br /><br />That being the case I decided to either draft or drape my own front apron. I spent quite a while looking at the Frances Grimble pattern and could never really figure out how to alter her pattern to make it useable. I gave up and tried my hand at draping the front apron.<br /><br />It was much easier than I had thought. I very quickly, within an hour, had the perfect shape. I was lucky with this dress, because the fabrics stripe helped me to find the originals straight of grain, and by counting the stripes, I easily estimated the horizontal lengths. There are three pleats at the waistband and three pleats at the side seam. I was a bit confused by the hem edge. The original has a one inch hem. This seemed strange to me, because that edge has an extreme curve and I worried that it would bunch oddly there. I decided that I would use a bias strip of polished cotton to hem the overskirt. I caught the cotton lace trim up in the bias hem, so all the raw edges are nice and tidy.<br /><br /> Another worry that I had was how to make the pocket in the under skirt accessible when the overskirt was installed. I decided to accomplish this by pleating the side seam of the over skirt and covering its raw edges with polished cotton bias tape. I then whipped stitched the overskirts front apron side seam by hand to the under skirt.<br /><br />The back drape was much easier to construct. It’s a full bolt width and one yard in length. The waist band edge is knife pleated with a box pleat at center back. The sides are blind hemmed by hand with a half inch hem. The bottom hem is finished like the hem of the overskirt. I used a bias strip of polished cotton and caught the cotton lace trim up in the hem.<br /><br />The back drape is tacked up with hooks and eyes.<br /><br />The closure of this skirt is done so that both the over and underskirt share a waist band. The underskirt closes at center front, but the over skirts waistband crosses in a wrap closure.<br /><br /><lj-cut text="Construction Pictures"><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001w687d/"><img alt="" height="478" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001w687d/s640x480" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="640" /></a><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001w8r72/"><img alt="" height="480" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001w8r72/s640x480" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="358" /></a><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001w9kx1/"><img alt="" height="480" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001w9kx1/s640x480" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="358" /></a><br /></lj-cut><br />
I followed the instructions for Making a Round Bodice on pg 264 on Frances Grimbles Bustle Fashions 1885-1887. “ Cut and piece the lining as directed for a basque bodice, with the exception that you cut it only 2 inches below the waist all around.”<br /><br />I enlarged the “Plain Basque” pattern on pg 74. The only alteration that I made to the pattern was to make the back and side back pattern pieces all in one. I thought it best to make the princess back seams faux. I made up the mock up out of my lining polished cotton. I altered it to fit, and when I was happy with it, I cut it apart and used it as my pattern to cut out of my fashion fabric.<br />I boned the bodice with Rigilene boning. The inspiration dress from LACMA has a gathered center front that I believe is a separate piece of fabric. I didn’t make a pattern piece for this, I just cut two rectangles of my fashion fabric gathered one edge and pinned it in place. I did this a few times and finally I found a look that I liked. The waist band is a strip of fabric torn on the grain, sewn to the bottom edge of the bodice and flipped up over the fashion side of the bodice. The collar is also a strip of fabric torn on grain. It’s trimmed in cotton lace. The center front buttons are faux. The bodice actually closes with hooks and thread bars.<br /><br />The sleeve pattern is a two piece style with a curved elbow. I have used this particular pattern many times and actually drafted it for a 1780’s zone front anglaise. The only changes I made were to bring in the sleeves side seams at the shoulder only, 1/2” on each side, so 2” total. I also shortened the sleeve so that the cuff falls midway between my wrist and elbow. The sleeve is lined in polished cotton and trimmed with cotton lace.<br /><br /><br /><lj-cut text="Moarrrrr with the pictures"><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001wae39/"><img alt="" height="480" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001wae39/s640x480" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="360" /></a><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001wb423/"><img alt="" height="480" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001wb423/s640x480" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="358" /></a><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001wc372/"><img alt="" height="408" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001wc372" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="189" /></a><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001wdh01/"><img alt="" height="480" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001wdh01/s640x480" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="602" /></a><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001we3e9/"><img alt="" height="480" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001we3e9/s640x480" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="366" /></a><br /><br /><br /></lj-cut><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001wf82d/"><img alt="" height="480" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001wf82d/s640x480" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="319" /></a><br /><br />OK... after a week of posting this info to you all I feel like I've run a marathon!! lol!<br /><br />I hope you all enjoyed it, and it wasn't too annoying to see my name YET AGAIN on you friends page. I said it in the comments before, but I'll say it again here. Thank you all for inspiring me. I hope these posts are of use to you. :)TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-25085206427058412682012-10-16T16:34:00.000-07:002012-10-16T16:38:01.725-07:00Making of... Tennis Dress #2I decided to make a skeleton corset for this project. I had found a simple skeleton corset on a Tumblr Blog, called The Ornamented Being, about a year ago.<br /><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001trcht/"><img alt="" height="240" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001trcht/s320x240" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="240" /></a><br /><br /><br /><i>The Met Lightweight summer corset ca. 1871 “This skeleton-like corset is unique in form, for it is lighter and less restricting. The open spaces make it a cooler and comfortable choice for warmer weather. Most likely, this corset would be worn with casual day wear, due to its simplicity, the only detail being the lace trim at top.”</i><br /><br />
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Although this corset is from 15 years earlier, this shape of corset was rather standard for a Victorian era. The Met doesn’t have any other pictures/views of this corset. I have no idea how the closure at the back looks so I did some searching about and found a similar corset in the private collection of Amanda Lerum. Her blog is here: http://corsetradesigns.blogspot.com/<br /><br /><lj-cut text="Skeleton Corset"><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001twhpa/"><img alt="" height="160" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001twhpa" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="125" /></a><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tx2t1/"><img alt="" height="210" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tx2t1/s320x240" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="320" /></a><br /></lj-cut><br /><br />These pictures gave me a very good idea of how to make the overall pattern. Although the original Met corset has a very interesting button closure that I was eager to duplicate.<br /><br /><b>Corsets Construction</b><br />The inspiration corset is made wholly of cotton of one form or the other. On that vein I searched out my stash and found cotton sateen for the center corded waist panel, cotton bone casing from farthingales. 5/8th” india tape for the bindings, and cotton croquet yarn for the cording. All the bones are 1/4” flat steal. I used lacing bones at the center back, and one lacing bone to secure the buttons at center front. I did use spiral steel bone at the center front. I needed the flexibility at that point to work the button through it’s hole.<br /><br /><lj-cut text="materials"><br /><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tstcp/"><img alt="" height="239" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tstcp/s320x240" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="320" /></a></lj-cut><br /><br /><br />The first thing I did was to make a corded panel with the cotton sateen, cotton duck and the croquet cotton yarn. I used a zipper foot, and sandwiched the yarn between the sateen and duck. Doing the cording this way makes the top layer of sateen corrugated, but leaves the bottom duck layer smooth. Also, making the entire panel first and than cutting out the pattern piece gives a much more accurate shape than cutting out the piece and than cording it. I than made to my waist measurements, minus 2 inches for lacing gap, a pattern for the center corded waistband panel.<br /><br /><br /><lj-cut text="Waistband "><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tthq6/"><img alt="" height="239" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tthq6/s320x240" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="320" /></a><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tkbrx/"><img alt="" height="239" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tkbrx/s320x240" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="320" /></a><br /></lj-cut><br />I bound the edges (top, bottom, and center back) with 5/8” inch india tape. Next was the button closure at center Front. Obviously a button closure has two pieces. The over placket (button hole side), and the under placket, button side. I was very concerned that the tension that the center front of a corset endurs, would be too much tension on a typical button closure, and the result would be that the button would tear out of it’s placket. I decided that I would use a lacing bone to create a stable surface to attach the button. A lacing bone is a 1/2” flat steel bone that has 1/4” holes drilled down the length of the bone at 1” intervals. I bought my lacing bones from Farthingales. I sewed the button through the placket fabric, through the hole of the lacing bone, and in the back to a small button to keep the thread from tearing through the placket fabric. One the top edge of the fabric I made a substantial thread shank for the button. I used two kinds of buttons for this corset, the front button is a rather large 5/8” shell, button, and the back is a smaller 1/2”? 3/8” shell button, both having 2 holes the larger being vintage, I think from the 1940‘s. The over placket has 4 vertical button holes, and a spiral steel bone along the outside edge. I was concerned that the button would rip through it’s hole. The bone along that edge seems to keep it in place. The Center back is a set of lacing bones covered in 5/8” boning tape from Farthingales. I used 00 two part grommets.<br /><br /><lj-cut text="Draping Corset"><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tpcbd/"><img alt="" height="239" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tpcbd/s320x240" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="320" /></a><br /></lj-cut><br /><br />Next, to find the placement of the rest of the bones, I put on the corset and simply pinned on 1/2” boning tape where I thought would be best. I did one side and through trial and error worked out the best placement. I slid 1/4” flat steel bones into the tape and used the 5/8” india tape to find the right placement for the top and bottom edge. Once I was happy with the left side I duplicated it on the other. I decorated the corsets top edge with a piece of cotton lace from my stash. Although this corset gives me no reduction in the waist, I am extremely pleased with it for one reason. I am extremely short wasted. From my armpit to waist is about 5 inches, compared to the standard 7-8 inches. The way the corded waist panel sits forces my waist down and lengthens my waist 1 1/2”! and it does it very comfortably! This has become my new favorite corset!<br /><br /><lj-cut text="Finished on dress form"><br /><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tqtza/"><img alt="" height="239" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tqtza/s320x240" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="320" /></a></lj-cut><br /><br />I decided right off that I wanted to make an exact replica of <a href="http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebcgi/mweb.exe?request=record;id=159998;type=101">LACMA’s tennis dress</a>. I had gone to the museum and taken quite a few pictures of the tennis dress. I was very good about taking close up pictures of the fabric.<br /><br />I used these pictures and sampled them in photoshop. I used a small portion 1”x 1”, and imported that sample to Spoonflower. Spoonflower offers the designer the option to tile the image in different ways. It was not a difficult project, but it was a bit frustrating having to wait for the next sample print. I did quite a few printings to get the colors right. After three printings I got a print that I was happy with.<br /><br /><br /><lj-cut text="Picture of LACMA Dress"><br /><br /><br /><br />This is a picture that I took of my inspiration dress in the museum.<br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001ty3d3/"><img alt="" height="480" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001ty3d3/s640x480" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="259" /></a><br />You can see my Tennis Dress fabric here:<br />http://www.spoonflower.com/profiles/twilatee<br /><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tzbg8/"><img alt="" height="126" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tzbg8" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="155" /></a></lj-cut>The LACMA has posted some great internal pictures of the Tennis Dress. From the picture it was clear to me that the bustle wires were part of the dress. Also the skirts pleats did not go up into the bustles base. I was fairly certain that the under skirt had a yoke top. Grimble’s book<i> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Bustle-Fashions-1885-1887-Suggestions-Adaptation/dp/0963651781">Bustle Fashions 1885-1887</a></i> offers an example of a pleated skirt with a yoke. <br /><br />I didn’t want to take the time to figure out where to put the bustle wires but I already had in my stash both the wire kit and the pattern for <a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=20&cat=5&page=1">Truly Victorian 101</a>. So I used the yoke pattern pieces and its accompanying <a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=26">wire kit </a>to build the underskirts yoke and bustle. The only alteration that I needed to add was to add a strip of material to the back yoke so that the bottom edge of the yoke was level with the ground. The skirt was easy enough to do. I cut four bolt widths of fabric to the length I needed, hemmed it and pleated it to the yoke.<br /><br />After I got it all together I remembered that I needed to add a pocket. So I pulled one side apart and added a pocket.<br /><br /><lj-cut text="Extant gown and Mine"><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001w0zbz/"><img alt="" height="240" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001w0zbz/s320x240" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="162" /></a><br />The internal bustle tapes of LACMA's extant gown<br /><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001w1q91/"><img alt="" height="240" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001w1q91/s320x240" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="179" /></a><br />The extant gowns pocket<br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001w39fg/"><img alt="" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001w39fg/s640x480" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid; width: 157px; height: 212px;" /></a><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001w4t3z/"><img alt="" height="214" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001w4t3z" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="310" /></a><br /><br />The Grimble yoke skirt, and the TV 101 pattern.<br /><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001w5g09/"><img alt="" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001w5g09/s640x480" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid; width: 230px; height: 492px;" /></a><br />You can see my pocket.<br /></lj-cut><br /><br /><br />TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-58054009420797596892012-10-16T16:31:00.000-07:002012-10-16T16:38:26.875-07:00Making of... Tennis Dress #1This is my Documentation that My friend <lj user="koshka_the_cat" /> and I entered at Costume Con this past weekend. We won Best in Show for this Documentation so I thought you all might like to see at least my half of it. Our entry was titled "Tennis Anyone?" and was two 1885 bustle tennis gowns. We also won Best in Show Historical Recreation, Best in Show in Master division, Best in Show in Workmanship.<br /><br />There's lots of information about early lawn tennis that I won't include here but needless to say, that this type of gown is pretty specialized. Not in a way that would matter greatly to our modern eye, but to Victorians these tiny deviations from the norm were very "sporty" as my husband would call it. The gowns were cotton and "light" (snerk... how can 9 yards be considered "light") shorter than typical, some had attached bustles, the corsets were specialized for heat, either being a skeleton, ventilated, or a more simplified version of a corset such as a "Good Sense corset waist".<br /><br />My plan is to upload my documentation by piece... Combinations, boots, corset, hat, underskirt, overskirt, and bodice. But to keep my audience a little bit interested, here is my finished gown.<br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001t0qg8/"><img alt="" height="480" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001t0qg8/s640x480" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="319" /></a><br /><br />I’d never made a set of combinations before, nor had I ever drafted up a pattern from one of Frances Grimbles books. I used the combination pattern on pg 30 of Bustle Fashions 1885-1887. This book is filled with patterns that use The National Garment Cutter System, to enlarge the patterns.<br /><br /><br />I used Jen Thompson's video tutorial as instructions to draft up the pattern. Her tutorial is here: http://festiveattyre.blogspot.com/2012/01/pattern-drafting-with-apportioning.html<br /><br /><br />I used 4 yards of cotton batiste in white to make up the combinations and the same small shell buttons that I used on the under placket of the corset, up it’s center front as a closure. To trim the combinations I used the same cotton lace as I did on the corsets top edge. At the pant cuff I used a handmade vintage crochet lace that I had in my stash.<br /><br /><br /><lj-cut text="pattern drafting, and finished"><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001t264x/"><img alt="" height="480" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001t264x/s640x480" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="358" /></a><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001t4xke/"><img alt="" height="480" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001t4xke/s640x480" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="358" /></a><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001t3qqh/"><img alt="" height="480" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001t3qqh/s640x480" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="358" /></a><br /></lj-cut><br /><br />
This is a cap I found here:<br />http://www.searshomes.org/index.php/tag/victorian-clothing/<br /><br />this is a dramatic little story... evidently the woman in this picture, Adeline Fargo, might have been murdered by her Husband.<br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001qr4br/"><img alt="" height="480" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001qr4br" style="border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-top-style: solid; border-right-style: solid; border-bottom-style: solid; border-left-style: solid; " width="209" /></a><br /><br />I'm assuming this photo was taken sometime in the 1890's, no date is explicitly given. Although this type of cap was popular for quite a long time. It's a man's working cap. Spencer's Mercantile sells a <a href="http://www.spencersmercantile.com/Sewing%20patterns/Country%20Wives/CW%20Men%27s%20Caps%20lg.jpg">cap </a>very similar.<br /><br />I also found a similar cap worn in a more contemporary time in <a href="http://www.amazon.com/When-Girls-Came-Out-Play/dp/1558495495">When the Girls Came out to Play.</a> Although the hat is striped and has a bit less over lay on the brim. The basic premiss of the hat is the same. A six gored tip attached to a narrow band, by way of "crown". The tip is soft and loose it hangs over or is tacked down to the partial brim.<br /><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001qt073/"><img alt="" height="480" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001qt073/s640x480" style="border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-top-style: solid; border-right-style: solid; border-bottom-style: solid; border-left-style: solid; " width="358" /></a><br /><br /><br />I patterned this pattern myself. I made it up in herringbone wool tweed. The tip and crown are flatlined in polished cotton. The brim is stiffened with 2 layers of single ply cotton buckram. The hat band is one inch wide wool twill tape. The cap is lined in cotton calico. The intersection of gores at the tips center is accented by a self covered button form.<br /><br /><lj-cut text="Construction Pictures"><br /><img alt="" height="240" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001qyegq" style="border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-top-style: solid; border-right-style: solid; border-bottom-style: solid; border-left-style: solid; " width="320" /><img alt="" height="240" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001r022e" style="border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-top-style: solid; border-right-style: solid; border-bottom-style: solid; border-left-style: solid; " width="320" /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001qz223/"><img alt="" height="240" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001qz223" style="border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-top-style: solid; border-right-style: solid; border-bottom-style: solid; border-left-style: solid; " width="320" /></a><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001r19x4/"><img alt="" height="320" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001r19x4" style="border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-top-style: solid; border-right-style: solid; border-bottom-style: solid; border-left-style: solid; " width="240" /></a><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001r4zr9/"><img alt="" height="320" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001r4zr9" style="border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-top-style: solid; border-right-style: solid; border-bottom-style: solid; border-left-style: solid; " width="240" /></a><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001r2zy2/"><img alt="" height="320" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001r2zy2" style="border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-top-style: solid; border-right-style: solid; border-bottom-style: solid; border-left-style: solid; " width="240" /></a><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001r3dz5/"><img alt="" height="320" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001r3dz5" style="border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-top-style: solid; border-right-style: solid; border-bottom-style: solid; border-left-style: solid; " width="240" /></a><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001r53kc/"><img alt="" height="240" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001r53kc" style="border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-top-style: solid; border-right-style: solid; border-bottom-style: solid; border-left-style: solid; " width="320" /></a><br /></lj-cut><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
Because this costume has so many buttons,(buttons in the corset, buttons in the combinations, buttons on the dresses bodice) I decided to run with the theme and wear a pair of button boots. I tried and failed quite a few times to buy a pair of turn of the century high button boots from eBay. It became obvious to me that this just wasn’t going to happen. So I began to look at modern reenactment boots. The only style I found was from Fugawee. These shoes are “faux”... the buttons don’t actually work. The other styles I found were discontinued. I became very disheartened again. I couldn’t find a style of historically accurate reenactment button boots. I than decided to look for a modern interpretation of button boots and found , to my surprise, a brand called F-Troupe.<br /><br />F-Troupe is a small shoe company based out of London England. You can find them here: www.f-troupe.com At the time I was able to buy on sale a pair of button boots in leather and painted canvas. Although the buttons were faux pearl and the soles man made material the look was almost exactly like an extant pair I found on eBay. I just needed to find some appropriate buttons and dye the F-Troupe boots ivory.<br /><br />I used Esquire Instant Leather Coloring dye to paint the boots. I cut off the original buttons and replaced them with a set of vintage mother of peal buttons. I think that with the changes I have made the F-Troupe boots look very similar to my inspiration button boots.<br /><br /><lj-cut text="pics of inspiration shoes & mine finished"><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/000cq925/"><img alt="" height="240" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/000cq925/s320x240" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="240" /></a><br />These are the Fugawee reenactment shoe<br /><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001dykad/"><img alt="" height="240" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001dykad/s320x240" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="230" /></a><br />F-troupes with working buttons<br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tfzqg/"><img alt="" height="240" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tfzqg" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="171" /></a><br />boots I found on ebay that I wanted to make my f-troupes look more like<br /><br /><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/18-Antique-Vtg-Mother-Pearl-Shoe-Buttons-10-5mm-J79-/261025592266?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D261002811381%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8458813746631116974"><img alt="" height="240" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tg9pc/s320x240" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="214" /></a><br />vintage shell shoe button from ebay... That picture will link you to the ebay listing.<br /><br /><a href="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tekyq/"><img alt="" height="239" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001tekyq/s320x240" style="border-width: 0pt; border-style: solid;" width="320" /></a><br />My finished painted and rebuttoned F-troupes.<br /></lj-cut><br /><br /><br />
TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-81036276137748122662012-10-16T15:54:00.000-07:002012-10-16T15:54:42.352-07:00Good Queen #3<br /><lj-cut text="Panniers"><br />Materials:<br /><br />stiff poly toile<br />1/2 inch zip ties<br />1/4 cotton twill tape<br />cotton twill<br /><br /><br />Overview<br />These small panniers are based on the pocket hoops from Corsets and Crinolines and several frame work frames that I have seen in museums and the blue ruffled set in “Marie Antoinette.”<br /><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/300370"><img height="176" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/300370/300370_600.jpg" title="1760 pannier2" width="320" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/300727"><img height="337" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/300727/300727_600.jpg" title="image000251" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/301035"><img height="380" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/301035/301035_600.gif" title="pannier" width="538" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/301173"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/301173/301173_600.jpg" title="Photo Jul 22, 1 15 23 PM" width="448" /></a><br />Construction<br /><br />I draped the pattern for these hoops on my form. They are 3 pieces of 1/2” zip ties in a ascending lengths. I drilled holes down the center of the zip ties and at their ends and used the grinder to round the sharp corners. I covered each tie win a pocket of pol toile.I sewed twill tape to the center holes and attached the ends to a square of cotton twill fabric.<br /><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/301357"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/301357/301357_600.jpg" title="Photo Jul 22, 11 28 48 AM" width="448" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/301798"><img height="448" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/301798/301798_600.jpg" title="Photo Jul 22, 11 31 15 AM" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/302072"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/302072/302072_600.jpg" title="Photo Jul 22, 11 32 13 AM" width="448" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/302117"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/302117/302117_600.jpg" title="Photo Jul 22, 11 34 46 AM" width="448" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/302459"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/302459/302459_600.jpg" title="Photo Jul 22, 12 34 44 PM" width="448" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/302793"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/302793/302793_600.jpg" title="Photo Jul 22, 12 34 53 PM" width="448" /></a><br /><br /></lj-cut><br />
There's a TON OF PICTURES on the wig construction. You have been warned. :)<br /><br />Ok... this is the last of it. Making the wig was the most interesting... I learned a lot. But I think my favorite part was the panniers... because they are completely plastic and it just makes me laugh. I'm twisted I know.<br /><br />I hope this is of help to someone. Have a Great Holiday... In the States anyway, otherwise, have a great weekend. :) go make stuff.<br /><lj-cut text="Wig"><br />Materials:<br /><br />Pony tailed wig from Arda<br />Pony tail clip disassembled for the wefts<br />5 feet of wefts<br />loose blue synthetic hair<br />panty hose in both nude and white<br />fiber fill<br />tricot fabric strips<br />two 13 inched mirror image embroidered appliques<br />white feathers<br />AB sequins<br />AB heat affix crystals<br />two necklaces<br />two tiaras<br />2 inch pearl belt buckle<br />hair pins<br />hot glue<br />e6000 glue<br />white nail polish<br /><br />Overview<br />I have never styled a wig before so I recruited help from my team mate Heather Irete. She gave me a basics primer, showed me how to cover a form with wefts, add loose hair, make rolled curls, and how to hide joins.<br /><br />The original Tarazuka wig loosely resembles the heavily styled wigs from the 1780’s. With a high multi tiered pile of various knots, rolled curls and poufs forming a cone at the heads crown. Unlike the 1780’s though there are long straight falls of hair from the temple. Each tier is decorated with a tiara. The sides of the wig are covered with wing shaped forms. These cover from the center of the wigs crown to behind the ear. The back of the wig is covered with 8 rolled curls a large pearl belt buckle and a necklace.<br /><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/305940"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/305940/305940_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 15, 2 45 05 PM" width="448" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/306396"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/306396/306396_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 15, 2 45 20 PM" width="448" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/306560"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/306560/306560_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 15, 2 45 36 PM" width="448" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/307038"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/307038/307038_600.jpg" title="screenshot_32" width="559" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Construction<br /><br />The wigs bangs were flipped up pinned down and hot glued in place with a hank of loose blue hair.<br /> The temple falls were sewn in using wefts from the separate pony tail clip and loose blue hair<br />The temple fall join was covered with a sweep of hair starting from the bangs to just below the crown. The hair was pinned and glued into place. Loose blue hair was pulled through the bang puff and added to the sweep and glued into place<br />The multi tiered crown pile was created with 1 ring panty hose form and 3 straight panty hose forms each in nude. The forms where stuffed with fiber fill, and using hot glue covered with wefts. The loose blue hair was added last.<br />The covered forms were glued into place. First being the ring form. Than added the 3 straight forms, tucking them inside the ring. The forms cover the entire wig crown.<br />The wigs original ponytail was tucked into itself forming the central rolled curl. it was pinned and hot glued in place<br />The seven other rolled curls are cut lengths of wefts the ends are covered in tricot fabric and glued into a roll. The loose blue lengths are added separately and glued into place. The finished rolled curls where then glued into place surrounding the original ponytail rolled curl. There are 5 facing horizontally and 1 on either side facing vertically.<br />The back of the wig is decorated with a large pearl belt buckle and an enamel necklace.<br />The wing decorations were built with lengths of millinery wire bent to the correct shape, joined into a ring with millinery joiners, and covered with white panty hose. The wings were than decorated with mirrored oriented embroidered appliques that have been decorated with hand applied sequence and hot affix crystals. Feathers have been glued to the backside of the wing.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/303057"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/303057/303057_600.jpg" title="2012-07-06 17.28.23" width="450" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/303210"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/303210/303210_600.jpg" title="2012-07-06 17.28.42" width="450" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/303400"><img height="450" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/303400/303400_600.jpg" title="2012-07-06 17.48.22" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/304042"><img height="450" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/304042/304042_600.jpg" title="2012-07-06 18.44.07" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/304306"><img height="450" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/304306/304306_600.jpg" title="2012-07-06 19.16.38" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/304538"><img height="450" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/304538/304538_600.jpg" title="2012-07-06 19.36.02" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/304677"><img height="450" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/304677/304677_600.jpg" title="2012-07-11 12.08.24" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/305007"><img height="450" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/305007/305007_600.jpg" title="2012-07-11 12.09.25" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/305234"><img height="450" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/305234/305234_600.jpg" title="2012-07-11 12.15.03" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/305413"><img height="450" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/305413/305413_600.jpg" title="2012-07-11 12.37.10" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/305855"><img height="450" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/305855/305855_600.jpg" title="2012-07-11 12.39.01" width="600" /></a><br /></lj-cut><br /><br /><lj-cut text="necklace"><br />Materials:<br />Bias cut 1” poi de soie tube<br />two 1 1/4” five strand necklace clasp<br />chain<br />lobster clasp<br />tear drop shaped pearl<br />two AB Crystals<br />silver head pin<br />large 2” x 1.5” oval crystal pendent<br />net lace<br /><br /><br />Overview<br />This necklace shape is based off of those chokers popular in the 1780’s. Similar also to a small Elizabethan ruff, this necklace with it’s ruffled lace and central pendant draw influence from both eras.<br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/307284"><img height="497" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/307284/307284_600.jpg" title="screenshot_39" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/307505"><img height="448" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/307505/307505_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 15, 9 13 13 PM" width="600" /></a><br /><br /><br />Construction<br /><br />The bias tube was left over from the sleeve puff decorations. I cut the bottom edge off of two lengths of lace. I used a gathering stitch to attach the lace to the bias tube by hand. I used a grinder to remove the factory loop off of the large crystal pendant. The pendant was mean to be oriented as a portrait. I than sewed the pendant to the bias tube as a landscape. I created the pearl and crystal drop by using a head pin. I sewed the finished drop to the center of the large pendant. I created the closure by sewing two 1 1/4” five strand necklace clasps to either edge of the bias tube, and using a short length of silver chain and a lobster clasp have an easy way of closing the choker necklace.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/307752"><img height="448" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/307752/307752_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 15, 9 14 30 PM" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/308105"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/308105/308105_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 15, 9 14 40 PM" width="448" /></a><br /></lj-cut><br />TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-40661156381662368022012-10-16T15:52:00.000-07:002012-10-16T15:54:31.211-07:00Good Queen #2<a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/296832"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/296832/296832_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 15, 12 49 21 AM" width="448" /></a><br /><lj-cut text="Collar Construction"><br />Materials:<br /><br />thread covered millinery wire<br />thread covered light gage floral wire<br />millinery wire joiner<br />silk organza<br />beaded and sequins lace applique<br /><br />Overview<br /><br />This collar is based on an elizabethan wired collar/ruff. The wired structure was called a supportess. Very often supportesses were meant to be reused, with different ruffs. Ruffs were either basted or tied to the supportess, and the supportess was in turn tied or basted to the dresses neckline.<br /><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/297185"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/297185/297185_600.jpg" title="screenshot_18" width="405" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/297300"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/297300/297300_600.jpg" title="screenshot_33" width="570" /></a><br /><br /><br />Construction<br /><br />To make the supportess or wired structure I draped the shape on my form using the dresses neckline as my guide. I started at the front left, worked my way around the back and to the front right. I than bent the wire and started on the wider top edge. I used a separate piece of millinery wire to add the cross supports. I worked from the front to the center, and than measured each support and repeated the supports on the other side so that each side is symmetrical. I used light gage floral wire to hold the supports in place.<br /><br />I covered the supportess with silk organza cut on the bias. I whip stitched the silk organza down by hand. I than added the lace applique by whip stitching it in place.<br /><br />The collar ties to the bodice at the neckline.<br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/294826"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/294826/294826_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 14, 3 36 49 PM" width="448" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/294952"><img height="448" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/294952/294952_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 14, 5 53 41 PM" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/295535"><img height="448" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/295535/295535_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 14, 6 55 13 PM" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/295893"><img height="448" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/295893/295893_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 14, 7 03 04 PM" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/296180"><img height="448" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/296180/296180_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 14, 8 30 16 PM" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/296611"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/296611/296611_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 15, 12 49 11 AM" width="448" /></a><br /></lj-cut><br /><br />
<br /><lj-cut text="Under Skirt"><br />Materials:<br /><br />Butterick 4131<br />poly china silk<br />stiff weight toile<br /><br />Overview<br />The skirt of this dress is held out with side hoops like panniers from the the 1700’s. I decided to add extra lift on the sides of my underskirt to fill in the skirts side hem.<br /><br />Construction<br /><br />I used Butterick 4131 as the base for my skirt. I added 2 inches in length and width to the side seam so that the skirts hem would hang evenly over the small panniers. The side seam has an inverted knife pleat at the waist for the pannier.<br /><br />I altered the pattern at the side back and center back to remove the skirts train.<br /><br />I put 2 layers of ruffled toile along the bottom edge of the underskirt. I added an extra layer of toile at the sides to fill in the skirts under the pannier.<br /><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/298413"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/298413/298413_600.jpg" title="" width="448" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/298072"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/298072/298072_600.jpg" title="" width="448" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/297917"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/297917/297917_600.jpg" title="" width="448" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/297477"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/297477/297477_600.jpg" title="" width="448" /></a><br /><br /> <br /></lj-cut><br /><br /><lj-cut text="Over Skirt"><br />Materials:<br /><br />Butterick 4131<br />poly poi de soie<br />china silk lining<br />1 1/2” synthetic horse hair braid<br />metallic net<br />3 styles of net lace<br />metallic trim<br />pearl trim<br />3 brooches<br />AB heat affix crystals<br />plastic gems<br />AB sequins<br />flat silver sequins<br /><br />Overview<br />The skirt of this dress is based on the 1700’s pannier shape. Although it does have a small train. for the most part this skirt is very 1700’s<br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/299388"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/299388/299388_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 09, 2 04 19 PM" width="448" /></a><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/300065"><img height="401" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/300065/300065_600.jpg" title="screenshot_36" width="301" /></a><br /><br />Construction<br />I used Butterick 4131 as the base for my skirt. I altered the pattern not only to fit over the panniers but also to add pleats at the waist line.<br /><br />The center front was trimmed separately. The metallic net was flatlined to the poi de soie center front. I made a paper guide to apply the net lace symmetrically. I used chalk transfer paper and a transfer wheel to mark the design. I stay stitched the design to keep the net from twisting. The net lace was than gathered and applied to the center front. The skirt was than assembled. Along the side front seam flat net lace was applied. Various gems, crystals and sequins were then sewn to the side front lace.<br /><br />I made a bag lining from china silk. I assembled the lining and joined it to the fashion layer at the hem I added 1 1/2” synthetic horse hair braid to the hem and top stitched it to the china silk lining. I top stitched the lining to the hem seam allowances to keep the lining from creeping up.<br /><br />The over skirt was than joined to the under skirt using an under placket at center back and a 1” waistband. The skirt closes with 2 hooks and eyes.<br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/298636"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/298636/298636_600.jpg" title="Photo Jul 26, 4 46 08 PM" width="448" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/298883"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/298883/298883_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 06, 6 11 59 PM" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/299021"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/299021/299021_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 06, 7 45 24 PM" width="448" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/299736"><img height="448" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/299736/299736_600.jpg" title="Photo Jul 25, 3 35 04 PM" width="600" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/299997"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/299997/299997_600.jpg" title="Photo Jul 25, 4 21 52 PM" width="448" /></a><br /></lj-cut><br />TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-89507043827799191252012-10-16T15:49:00.002-07:002012-10-16T15:54:18.269-07:00Making of... Cosplay, Good Queen #1I recently did a costume Masquerade at AnimegaCon. I thought you all might get a kick out of seeing my documentation for it. My friends and I won 2nd place for our costumes. We won a Best Craftsmanship award. Im not really familiar with Anime catagories... but I think that Craftsman is the equivilent to Masters class... I think it also has to do with construction. Meh. I don't even know. Can you tell I'm an Anime noob? :D We cosplayed a Takarazuka opera called Prince of the Land of Roses. Basically it's Beauty and the Beast. Ironically enough we had no Beauty, only a Beast. That is my friend <lj user="gentileschi" />...in the blue wig as the beast. Didn't she do an amazing job?<lj user="mirthfairy" /> played the Evil Queen in red. I wish you could see the beading in her wig ... and I'm in gray... I'm the Good Queen. There's quite a lot of construction notes on this costume. I"ll post the peices one at a time. I'm starting at the Bodice.<p></p><p><img src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/290215/original.jpg" /></p><p>The girl in leather and pink was some kind of Con mascot... Yah.</p><p></p><lj-cut text="Bodice Construction">Bodice Materials:<p>Simplicity 8881 poly poi de soie (duchess satin) polished cotton poly lining rigilene boning spiral steel boning glass pearls silver metallic netting lace daisies in 2 sizes silver trim pearl trim AB sequins AB heat affix crystals pre-strung pearl trim</p><p>Overview This costumes bodice is based on a typical Elizabethan bodice. It has a squared neckline, pointed center front and straight center back. The armscye is open and high without a dropped shoulder. The center front is heavily decorated with a line of pearls, lace, and sequins, not unlike an Elizabethan stomacher.</p><p>I used Simplicity 8881 for the bodice pattern. I fit it over my 1780’s stays from Corsets and Crinolines and my Mara Riley linen shift.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/290385/original.jpg" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/290785/original.jpg" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>Construction</p><p>The bodices construction was fairly simple. I used polished cotton as the strength layer and applied boning to it. The strength layer was flatlined to the fashion poi de soie layer and those layers where treated as one.</p><p>The center fronts embellishments were added before the bodice was assembled. I basted a layer of metallic net to the center front poi de soie piece, treated them as one and applied it to cotton muslin that I then put in an embroidery frame to do all of the beading and lace work by hand.</p><p>The center front was assembled with the fashion layer, the strength layer, and the lining layer separate from the rest of the bodice. The neckline was turned inside the lining and strength layer. All other edges were left raw and unturned, but basted together to be treated as one.</p><p>All the other pattern pieces were assembled. The fashion and strength layers were assembled as one, and lining was assembled separately. The lining and fashion layers were joined at the neckline.</p><p>The center front was joined to the side front using the “Folded Seam Method” . This is usually used in corsetry but I’ve found that square necklines take to this kind of seam very well. With this method you get a nice crisp corner. The neckline edge was top stitched on the lining to the seam allowances to keep the lining from creeping up.</p><p><img src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/291007/original.jpg" /></p><p>(This diagram belongs to a poster from the corset makers community. Thank you so much for making it and being awesome.)</p><p>The waist edge was finished in the victorian method, by treating all layers as one. On the outside a strip of self bias is sewn and turned under to inside and whipped stitched down to lining only.</p><p>The Center back is finished with hand bound eyelets for lacing. There is a modesty panel and either side of the eyelets are reinforced with spiral steel bones.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/291176/original.jpg" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/291389/original.jpg" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/291645/original.jpg" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/291944/original.jpg" /></p><p></p>
<a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/292129"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/292129/292129_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 13, 8 11 47 PM" width="448" /></a><br /><lj-cut text="Sleeves, Upper and Under"><br />Materials:<br /><br />Simplicity 4508<br />Butterick 6630<br />poi de soie<br />poly lining<br />1 inch synthetic horse hair braid<br />3 types of net lace<br />metallic trim<br />pre strung pearl trim<br />pearl trim<br />metallic net<br />glass pearls<br /><br />Overview<br />These sleeves are based loosely in Tudor and Elizabethan fashion. The slashed and puffed upper sleeve, as well as the open over sleeve is typical of these eras.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/293858"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/293858/293858_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 14, 8 59 12 AM" width="448" /></a><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/294409"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/294409/294409_600.jpg" title="screenshot_17" width="437" /></a><br /><br />Shiney shoes! :)<br /><br />Construction<br />I used Butterick 6630 for the under sleeves without alteration, except for the added pearled fabric strips.<br /><br />The pearled strips are bias cut tubes of poi de soie. I sewed metallic trim down each center. I than added glass pearls by hand to the center of each strip. I then sewed by hand lengths of pre strung pearl trim. The lower sleeve is decorated with hand sewn sequins. The under-sleeve is completely lined.<br /><br />I used Simplicity 4508 for the over sleeve. I had to alter the pattern by adding a sleeve cap. The sleeve has an outside layer of poi de soie and a lining of metallic net. I trimmed the sleeve with net lace and metallic trim.<br /><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/293528"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/293528/293528_600.jpg" title="189475_4074496173662_1316404104_n" width="448" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/294111"><img height="600" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/294111/294111_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 15, 3 49 37 PM" width="447" /></a><br /><a href="http://twilatee.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/322/294238"><img height="447" src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/12378907/294238/294238_600.jpg" title="Photo Aug 15, 3 49 55 PM" width="600" /></a><br /><br /></lj-cut><br />TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-3400137564497402022012-10-16T15:42:00.003-07:002012-10-16T15:44:50.919-07:00Making of Snow White #3<br />
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At the end of my last post, I was all done with the skirt and on to the bodice, wired collar, stomacher and sleeves.<br />
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The bodice pattern is from <a href="http://www.tudortailor.com/eg.htm">Tudor Tailor</a>. I did alter it though. I added a seam up the side front. It's in <span class="ljuser ljuser-name_shoomlah" style="white-space: nowrap;"><a href="http://shoomlah.livejournal.com/"><b>shoomlah</b></a></span>'s original drawing so I added it. The collar is also from Tudor Tailor. It's the plain collar on pg 133. I don't think you can get that pattern from the website. It's only in the book.<br />
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<lj -cut="-cut" text="bodice and collar "><br /><img alt="" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001pkkzf" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt; height: 528px; width: 396px;" /><br />It's rich dark blue silk velvet... Also I'm working out the stomacher here.<br /><br /><img alt="" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001px8k9" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt; height: 453px; width: 340px;" /><br /><br />I was thinking I'd whip stitch the wired collar to the bodice, but thought better of it when I thought of travel. I've since sewn hooks to the bodice and thread bars to the collar.<br /><img alt="" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001pypc1" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt; height: 392px; width: 294px;" /><br /><br />The collar is cotton organdy. the outside edge and sides were sewn right sides together turned and the wire was bent and slid between the 2 layers and hand sewn with a running stitch. The neck edge was rolled hemmed.</lj><br />
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Stomacher is also from Tudor Tailor. I beaded it with whatever beads I had in my stash, some pearls, and lots of glass in various shades of blue and gray. I did the beading on a hoop my husband made for me. It's my lacie tabour stand with a PVC rectangle hoop bolted on. I used the method of drawing the beading pattern on tissue paper and sewing the beads through the paper and tearing it all away when the beadings all done.<br />
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<lj -cut="-cut" text="Stomacher"><br /><img alt="" height="483" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001q9ske" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt;" width="362" /><br />FRANKINHOOP!! It's Alive! :)<br /><br /><img alt="" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001q3yab" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt; height: 427px; width: 319px;" /><img alt="" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001q6bpq" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt; height: 428px; width: 320px;" /><br /><br />The actual construction of the stomacher was straight forward... it's boned with rigilene boning... got a strength layer of twill and lined in blue linen. The fashion layer is 2 toned with the top most edge being a golden silk strip with an embroidered apple motif. :)<br /><br />The bodice closes with internal laces, the stomacher is sewn to the left side and uses hooks and bars on the right.</lj><br />
The sleeves are kinda not my favorite part... I wish I had constructed them different, but I'm NOT changing it now. :)<br />
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I used an undersleeve. That in itself is good! it worked really well and kept the puffs puffy were they aught to be, but I think I should have had the undersleeves of the puffs <span class="st">separate</span> instead of attaching everything to one undersleeve. it was a very awkward and frustrating construction. Don't get me wrong... it worked, but not prettily. :/<br />
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<lj -cut="-cut" text="Sleeves"><br /><img alt="" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001qqg30" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt; height: 276px; width: 370px;" /><br /><br />These are the elbow puffs.<br /><img alt="" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001rsfs8" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt; height: 604px; width: 453px;" /><br />You can see how the undersleeve really works well holding the puffs in place.<br /><br />The next thing was the fashion layers embroidery.<br /><br /><img alt="" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001rtehp" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt; height: 514px; width: 384px;" /><br />The bits were sewn together to create bands and cuffs, and then applied to the undersleeve. This is where it got really frustrating. The sleeve is narrow and it was super hard to keep the underlayer from being caught up in the bands topstitching. GAH. **head desk** what a newby kinda play... but hey! take my pain to heart and learn from my mistakes. L0L. :)<br /><br /><img alt="" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001rwrt5" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt; height: 432px; width: 324px;" /><img alt="" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001rxfbp" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt; height: 431px; width: 320px;" /><br /><img alt="" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001ryaz1" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt; height: 449px; width: 336px;" /><br />Red velvet ribbon was added for trim and last but not least those mother of pearl beads were sewn onto the silk.</lj><br />
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At this point the gown is done! Yay! .... now I just need to DYE MY HAIR. :O scary.<br />
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<img alt="" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001s1289" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt; height: 805px; width: 606px;" /><br />
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<lj -cut="-cut" text="All Done"><br /><img alt="" height="808" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001s33wp" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt;" width="606" /><img alt="" height="808" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001s2bh3" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt;" width="606" /><img alt="" height="808" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001s70b6" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt;" width="606" /><img alt="" height="808" src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001s63dq" style="border-style: solid; border-width: 0pt;" width="606" /></lj><br />
Thanks for Reading! I'm really excited about this project. It was a bit of a drama to make, but it's going to be a BLAST to wear!TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-37846493179262054902012-10-16T15:42:00.002-07:002012-10-16T15:44:36.881-07:00The Making of Snow White #2In this post I share progress pictures of the dresses skirt and also a picture or two of the farthingale under neath.<br />
<lj -cut="-cut" text="she looked at her work and called it a skirt."><br />The Farthingale pattern is from the Tudor Tailor. I bought a few yards of silk on a trip to LA garment district. I used hoop steel that I had left over from my first antebellum hoop... (simplicity, complete fail) It was a very simple project. and I didn't need to buy anything for it.<br /><img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001p2ggk" style="cursor: default;" /><br /><br />It's not the best picture... but you get the idea. It's a Farthingale. Yay!<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001pa15e" style="cursor: default;" /><br /><br />I decided to use beads instead of embroidering the tear drop shapes on the skirt. I'm glad I did. They are unexpected and add shine and dimension<br /><img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001pbq1y" style="cursor: default;" /><br /><br />These beads are mother of pearl... I ordered orange, because the bronze type color was too dark. When the orange came I was sad... it was super bright. So I used RIT dye (brown) and boiled them... the color is much more golden now.<img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001pce41" style="cursor: default;" /><br /><br />The skirt is 3 bolt widths of silk... 58". The front is 1 width and the back 2. I knife pleated the front not unlike a 1700ish petticoat, 'cept I cartridge pleated 10" on either side of the front and all of the back. The skirt opens at one side and has a pocket on the other.<br /><img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001peg0x" style="cursor: default;" /><br /><br />That's a pocket....<br /><br /><img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001pf64b" style="cursor: default;" /><br /><br />and that's a placket.<br /><br /><img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001pdcfg" style="cursor: default;" /><br />The back is very full and swishy. :) I likes it.</lj><br />
now on to the bodice. :)TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-90545064245901967332012-10-16T15:40:00.001-07:002012-10-16T15:44:20.744-07:00Making of Snow White #1This upcoming year will be my first time attending Costume Con. I try to do two or three costume related events every year as its good for my psyche. I guess I'm never as comfortable as when I'm pretending to be someone else. :)<br />
So for Costume Con I'm dressing up as Snow White. I'm not sure if you've seen <lj user="Shoomlah">'s drawing of the Disney Princesses done in a more historically accurate way, if not, do check out her work. It's very good.</lj><br />
There are a few costumers doing remakes of these drawings. Some try to make the dress even more historically accurate, some try to get the feel of the gown, but add their own design elements, some try to make her drawings more like the original Disney Princess.<br />
I just want the gown in her picture. I love it. It's NOT historically accurate at all. It's just really cute.<br />
This is the dress:<br />
<img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001ke10x" /><br />
It's a strange mash-up of German 1500ish and Elizabethan. Obviously the gown has a support structure going on under there... Bodice is pointed... I'm thinking a stomacher over lacing, weird collar? thing... It's got to be wired maybe a wire supporter.<br />
So as of right now this is what I have done on this project:<br />
1. All materials have been gathered/bought (except for the farthingale fabric)<br />
<lj -cut="-cut" text="fabric"></lj><br />
<img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001kfwdp" /><br />
2. The caul has been built... OMG, that was surprisingly time intensive. Gah.<br />
<lj -cut="-cut" text="Lynn Macmasters Caul"></lj><br />
<img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001kgg1t" /><br />
Your looking at 200+hours there... Never again.<br />
3. Stays <br />
<lj -cut="-cut" text="Back lacing from Tudor Tailor"></lj><br />
<img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001kc95e" /><br />
<img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001kddy4" /><br />
They are cotton sateen with two layers of Duck... Boned with reed except at center back, rose two are flat steel. The busk is from Mantua Maker.<a href="http://www.blogger.com/http://www.mantua-maker.com/sitebuildercontent/sbsimages/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://www.mantua-maker.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/1700-8-Busk.jpg&target=tlx_picmm6a/"></a><br />
4. The beginnings of skirt embroidery<br />
<lj -cut="-cut" text="Tambour work"></lj><br />
<img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001kh5s7" /><br />
<img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001kk41r" /><br />
<img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001kpae7" /><br />
The pattern was transferred to the work via a light box... Simple enough. It's quite a not to do though... 3 bolt widths... And so it's quite a slog.<br />
<img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001k2rgd" /><br />
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At this point I'm about 1/2 way through the embroidery. On and on it goes. It's going to be lovely when done... But I would love to just get the dress fitted and cut and together.... But the continued embroidery!!! Gah! Especially after the beat of a caul. <br />
Oh well!! It will be a blast to wear! ;)<br />
5. Apple!<br />
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<img src="http://pics.livejournal.com/twilatee/pic/001kqfaw" /><br />
From Joanns... It's a Christmas ornament.<br />
You know? I think I shall just go on and pattern the bodice and get on to the skirt.... I just want to see some progress already! Lol!! <br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Posted via <a href="http://m.livejournal.com/iphone/link">LiveJournal app for iPhone</a>.</i></span>TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-59155083878219096812012-10-16T13:09:00.001-07:002012-10-17T08:33:11.202-07:00"Adventure Time" Hood PatternThis post contains free patterns. That's always fun. :)<br />
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This is a very simple project and should take no more than 2 hrs to make. It's ripe for alteration so if you make a variation please please please! Share! I'd love to see a unicorn hood. I truly would. :)<br />
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My youngest son is a hoot. His sense of humor is a bit off... The apple doesn't fall far from the tree I guess.<br />
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Adventure Time is a huge favorite... So Finn the Human was his choice for Halloween this year. <br />
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This is meant to fit a fidgety 15 year old. This pattern though includes a shorten/lengthen line, and instructions on how and where to measure the wearers face to get the hood to fit . If you want this to fit a size 8 kid remove the 1/2 seam allowance along center back. For every size smaller remove and additional 1/4". So for a size 4 kid remove 1".<br />
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I'm not going to give sewing instruction other than these four tips:<br />
1. When cutting out 4 layers of polar fleece, don't pin, draw the pattern on the fabric and cut. You'll get a more accurate cut.<br />
2. Fleece is sucky to sew. To make it better set the PSI on the pressure foot very low. You'll have to pull the fabric through the machine a bit. You can also use a walking foot or one of those specialty feet with wheels.<br />
3. To set the ears accurately, sew one side of the dart, (your essentially marking the dart) and sew the preassembled ear to that side matching up sew lines. Then finish the dart. Sewing one side of the dart also acts as stay stitching, and makes a stable base to apply the ear.<br />
4. I didn't mark it on the pattern, but leave a 2" gap open in the linings center back seam so you can turn the hood right side out.<br />
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The pattern was made by Amanda Lerum. She is very handy at making sewing patterns, in fact she makes patterns to sell on <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/corsetra">Etsy</a>, you can also visit her <a href="https://www.facebook.com/CorsetraDesigns">facebook</a>.<br />
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One other thing... There are 2 patterns, one with a chin strap, and one with ties. This is because my son couldn't decide what he likes best. Pitty me. And yet like the sucker I am, I made 2. :)<br />
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The pattern with the chin strap measures 10" from center seam down the middle of the face to the top of the chin strap. If you measure down the wearers face from the hairline, down the nose to under the chin, you will see how much you will need to shorten or lengthen the pattern.<br />
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Oh! you'll need to add a dart in the ear... mine are 1/2". You cut four of everything. The hood itself is self lined, or you can use different fabric to line it. Fancy! <br />
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TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-76001272137564951892012-04-04T10:40:00.000-07:002012-04-04T10:40:45.789-07:00Something is afoot, So where's the Circle K?Hello all! how are you? I hope well! I've been absent, but quite busy. I have things to share with you, and I hope you enjoy it all. :)<br />
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I've been working on a Rockabilly and Lolita fashion line. I'm testing out the first three designs on Etsy. Please do take a peek, and buy if you choose. Give me some feedback. Tell me what you would like to change, fabric you would rather see, or designs you'd rather have. All that information is extremely relevant and important to me. Thank you so very much for helping me out! :)<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All art Candy Rudolf</td></tr>
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<a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/DipsinTime">Bespoke... Dips in Time</a><br />
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Eventually... next month I'll be adding vintage bathing suits. Also the first of the EGL (lolita) stuffs.<br />
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I've made a Snow White Cosplay. Claire Hummel has done, and is doing, a series of artwork, all historically accurate Disney princesses. When I saw them, I had to get my greedy grubby hands on Snows gown. I mean... I REALLY wanted it. :) so I made it!<br />
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I finished the dress last weekend and sent Claire Hummel some pictures. She in turn posted them on her tumblr. :) SQUEEEEE!! All this is Quite EXCITING!<br />
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Everyone that in turn commented and reposted and liked my gown, <u>Thank You</u> all so very much. I sometimes forget how BIG, and yet how SMALL the world is. It's so amazing that the thread I play with in my little studio could touch so many people. I am overwhelmed, and grateful, and humbled. I seriously love you guys. :)<br />
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Please visit Claire's Tumblr. <a href="http://shoomlah.tumblr.com/post/20421087671/yall-are-amazing-twilatee-just-sent-me-a-link#post-notes">Shoomlah</a><br />
I did do a Dress Diary entry about this gown on <a href="http://dressdiaries.livejournal.com/559168.html">LiveJournal</a>. You need to be a member of that comm to view it... Although I can repost that entry here.... hmmmm I wonder if I could just use the HTML??<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EBOBJFmxHdo/T3yBZG9PqTI/AAAAAAAAAYs/LesG_3feSLc/s1600/clairhummelsw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EBOBJFmxHdo/T3yBZG9PqTI/AAAAAAAAAYs/LesG_3feSLc/s320/clairhummelsw.jpg" width="227" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BYpJ_hw950E/T3yAwTh528I/AAAAAAAAAYk/EpATvsZ5Ye4/s1600/IMG_2097.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BYpJ_hw950E/T3yAwTh528I/AAAAAAAAAYk/EpATvsZ5Ye4/s320/IMG_2097.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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And with that, I now have a <a href="http://twilatee.deviantart.com/">DeviantART</a> I'll be using it as my portfolio.... seems like all the hip kids are doing it. :) I'll add a link back to this blog so my tutorials and free patterns will be accessible from there. I'm looking to get my web footprint more cohesive.TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-80424021019770653602011-12-19T16:50:00.000-08:002011-12-19T16:50:33.146-08:00Apron Pattern and Tutorial Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As a Christmas gift for my family and friends, I made aprons to give out at a Christmas baking party that I had at my home. I thought it might also be nice to give a tutorial and a free pattern for the apron to my blog followers. They are super easy to construct and make quick and cute gifts. </div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">With all my heart I hope that your Christmas holiday is filled with joy and happiness, and that next year will be prosperous. Merry Christmas! :)</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yt7aLyxNf8Q/Tu_P5HsxU4I/AAAAAAAAAXU/ZFMCxYYqw28/s1600/IMG_1868.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yt7aLyxNf8Q/Tu_P5HsxU4I/AAAAAAAAAXU/ZFMCxYYqw28/s320/IMG_1868.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qncCnS30UrA/Tu_OYPEMTdI/AAAAAAAAATE/GUyWk5PCLIE/s1600/DSC00748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qncCnS30UrA/Tu_OYPEMTdI/AAAAAAAAATE/GUyWk5PCLIE/s320/DSC00748.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To make this apron you will need:</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">1 1/4 yards of 45' novelty cotton print or quilting cotton print. </div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">If you want your waistband tie to be the wider width you will need the 1 1/2 yards.</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4l8Yq5bzPB8/Tu_ObA5_w5I/AAAAAAAAATM/oleLxLEqaDQ/s1600/IMG_1828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4l8Yq5bzPB8/Tu_ObA5_w5I/AAAAAAAAATM/oleLxLEqaDQ/s400/IMG_1828.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The above picture shows the apron's cutting layout. The only time you'll need scissors to cut in this project is for the apron bib... the pattern for it is below... all of the straps, ruffles and skirt are torn on the straight of grain across the bolt, from salvage to salvage. It's important to ask the store to tear your fabric or to give you and extra 3 inches or so, because as you can see in my layout picture this fabric wasn't torn on the grain from the bolt, and because of that I'm missing 2" or so at the top right. I should have been able to get 4 half straps and 3 full straps from 1 1/4 yards of fabric</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Cut List:</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">2 apron bibs... either Arch or Heart shaped</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">4 half straps... 2 of these are for the neck strap and 2 will be used for the bib ruffle. These are torn 3" wide across the bolt from salvage to the bib</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">3 full bolt width straps... 2 of these are for the waistband tie and 1 is for the bib ruffle. These are torn 3" wide across the bolt from salvage to salvage. If you want to have the wider waistband tie, tear the 2 waistband ties at 4.5"</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">1 skirt... You don't really have to tear this out. Whatever is the remaining fabric will be your skirt.</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZPq74D2xkOs/Tu_FBPwd9NI/AAAAAAAAAS8/icvW89d8rc8/s1600/Apronbib.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="303" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZPq74D2xkOs/Tu_FBPwd9NI/AAAAAAAAAS8/icvW89d8rc8/s320/Apronbib.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I think the heart shaped bib front looks shorter than the Arch... they should be the same length. (I've no idea how that happened.) </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> Next entry will be all the steps of construction! I am now headed to my 3rd Christmas Party! </div>TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-54502057229721124932011-10-31T13:53:00.000-07:002011-10-31T14:09:54.705-07:00Finished thingsI've been very busy... and really shouldn't be taking the time out to edit these pictures and such... but I've been putting this off for too long. It really needs to be posted.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">Regency Fairy</span></b></div><br />
First off is the Regency Fairy. I took a million photos, that have been lost. I let my son borrow my camera, and I think the pictures from faire are no more. It's a good thing my friend took pictures! lol! So I did a bit of pilfering and photoshop-ing and now have these pictures to share:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9QQNHanyZuI/Tq7b-iuo0TI/AAAAAAAAARk/Kmzt8PWWjF8/s1600/fairywishes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="171" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9QQNHanyZuI/Tq7b-iuo0TI/AAAAAAAAARk/Kmzt8PWWjF8/s400/fairywishes.jpg" width="400" /></a></div> I bought a bottle of bubbles. I like the picture to the right, as you can see my new bracelets.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eyCkGFwFMtE/Tq7b_c-yLcI/AAAAAAAAARs/586ji_v3SmI/s1600/w-wings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eyCkGFwFMtE/Tq7b_c-yLcI/AAAAAAAAARs/586ji_v3SmI/s1600/w-wings.jpg" /></a></div>With wings.... you can see my sandals. I found a painting of a regency lady wearing some very similar to these. I was glad to have worn them, it was rather warm that day!<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Without the wings.. you can see how the wings are tied to my stays with ribbon. I am glad I decided to do this. Although my stays are a bit visible, the weight of the wings was better carried by doing this. My friend had a neck ache the next day because she only tied the wings around her shoulders.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>The dress pattern is: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Period-Impressions/152741538080186?sk=wall">Period Impressions</a> #464<br />
My stays: <a href="http://www.pastpatterns.com/038.html">Past Patterns</a> #38<br />
I'm NOT wearing a petticoat... soooo skanky.<br />
My chemise: <a href="http://www.marariley.net/shift/shift.htm">Shift</a> I shortened the sleeves<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">The Second of Three Victorians</span></b></div><br />
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This is my Blue Bonnet.... the pattern is: <a href="http://timelytresses.com/">The Clara Christine</a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I made the pattern for this dress... but mostly it's from... <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Patterns-Fashion-1660-1860-Janet-Arnold/dp/089676026X/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1320094194&sr=8-2">Patterns of Fashion 1</a> and <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Patterns-Fashion-Englishwomens-Construction-1860-1940/dp/0896760278/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_b">2</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">and would you look at that 2 posts to this blog in one day!</div>TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-2597803910501435072011-10-31T13:13:00.000-07:002011-10-31T13:13:43.867-07:00Early VictorianThis post contains a free pattern!! very exciting. :)<br />
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So... Early Victorian.... in my mind this spans the time when the young queen took over, and some smarty pants figured out that if you put steel wire in a corded petticoat instead of rope, chicks would dig it. So 1840 ish to 1850 ish. :)<br />
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If any paragraph that I have written would clue you in that I'm NOT a reenactor but am a costumer... I'm not sure I could write a more blasphemous one. :) for reals.<br />
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But this is actually really accurate. Hand to god. I swear. During this time period... Early Victorian. women liked big skirts... :) but it was hard to get skirts super big. So methods were devised. I guess this started with the romantic era 1825-1830 ish?... but corded petticoats (if not heavy and hot) solved the bigger skirt problem, a little bit. Corded petticoats and heavily starched petticoats (heavily starched in so heavy a starch that the skirts could stand on their own) used together would hold a skirt out pretty well. I didn't mention petticoats made of horsehair or crin... crin is french for hair??... and yes, that would be a crinoline. :) (dropping knowledge like a bomb)<br />
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I'm not sure when this particular pattern was published... I'm assuming sometime late in this era. But this corded petticoat calls for 3 rows of reed. Yah... reed, that grows... in like a river... and you can make wicker chairs out of it. Yah. REED.<br />
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So this corded petticoat is super BIG. and for the most part is strong, and can support a heavy starched petticoat, and dress.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MGbv8z--P9w/Tjg1WGblwPI/AAAAAAAAAP4/2IdI3sZgw4w/s1600/000p0y6t.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MGbv8z--P9w/Tjg1WGblwPI/AAAAAAAAAP4/2IdI3sZgw4w/s640/000p0y6t.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br />
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Did you know... I wrote this post super long ago, and was going to edit it, and add something. I don't remember what it was... I think a tutorial on double piping. Well, it's been too long and if I haven't written that tutorial yet, I might as well post this without it. At least the pattern is there. :)TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-50325204257155483642011-08-11T11:30:00.000-07:002011-08-11T12:24:53.005-07:00Regency Fairy... A wing TutorialMy friend <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Katherine </a> and I are in the sad position of being a pair of historical costumers in a landscape full of cos-players and fantasy costumers. To be honest though we have both costumed characters from movies, but for the most part, it's all about historical technique and construction. <br />
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She and I go to the Ren Faire most years. We try to make costumes relevant to the time period. We had planned on making rural Flemish gowns this year.. But wool?!?! Multiple layers?!? At 100'? Oh no. I just can't.<br />
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So Katherine and I were joking <br />
around and came up with the idea of wearing light and airy Regency Gowns to Faire, but because it's Faire (not the most historically accurate event) wearing fairy wings had real appeal. <br />
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Being the big nerd that I am, I did a search for Regency Fairies and found this book..<br />
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<center><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0001950398?ie=UTF8&force-full-site=1"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/11/s_2527.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="128" /></a></center><br />
It's a lovely little book, full of Regency Faries. I used the pictures in this book as a starting point for my wings.<br />
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As luck and serendipity would have it my friend <a href="http://mirthfairy.livejournal.com/" target="_blank">MirthFairy</a> is very knowledgeable in the construction of fairy wings. She even started her own fairy guild at the Ren Faire! She agreed to give Katherine and I, a crash course in wing making. It was very fun and educational... Plus I set out a pretty Tea. :)<br />
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<center><a href="http://www.greatbunsbakery.net/"><img border="0" height="281" src="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/11/s_2528.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="210" /></a></center><br />
No... I don't bake. Pic-link :)<br />
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With the information I learned and the magic of google I hitched a plan, and surprise surprise it was rather successful! <br />
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Like I said, I wanted my wings to have a realistic insect like look...<br />
I found on etsy, and eBay... artist making printed wings on transparency film, for ball jointed dolls. They have dragonfly, cicada, and moth like veins through the wings. I was worried though that if I printed wings in a human size and tried to mount the printed transparency on iridescent cellophane the ink would smear... messy. So I decided cut work would do, even if it's not as realistic.<br />
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HOW TO MAKE CUT WORK FAIRY WINGS<br />
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You will need:<br />
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a self healing cutting mat<br />
exacto knife <br />
Hammer and a board to hammer on<br />
steam iron<br />
small box to spray adhesive<br />
A needle tool... Or a thin screwdriver.<br />
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spray paint (black) for metal<br />
spray adhesive<br />
black shower curtain liner<br />
clear cellophane <br />
iridescent cellophane <br />
galvanized wire<br />
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First thing you'll do is draw your pattern... Or copy mine. :) you might want to copy 2 as a guide for placing your cut work.<br />
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<center><a href="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/11/2529.jpg"><img border="0" height="281" src="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/11/s_2529.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="210" /></a></center><br />
Sorry about the glare... <br />
I drew mine on old Christmas wrapping paper.<br />
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Next you'll need to bend your wire frame.<br />
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Then smash the center section with a hammer... Best part of this project! HULK SMASH!<br />
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Paint the frame... Do this outside so you don't asphyxiate yourself. :( .... Hang it out on the line so it will dry... And eat lunch now. :)<br />
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<center><a href="http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/"><img border="0" height="281" src="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/11/s_2534.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="210" /></a></center><br />
Now layer your wing diagram over 2 layers of shower curtain<br />
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Now cut out the wing<br />
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The cut wings will look kinda like this<br />
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<center><a href="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/11/2542.jpg"><img border="0" height="281" src="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/11/s_2542.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="210" /></a></center><br />
Set up your adhesive station<br />
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<center><a href="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/11/2543.jpg"><img border="0" height="281" src="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/11/s_2543.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="210" /></a></center><br />
And spray!!! But don't go crazy breathing is good... And its wicked sticky. <br />
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<center><a href="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/11/2544.jpg"><img border="0" height="281" src="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/11/s_2544.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="210" /></a></center><br />
Your going to apply this cut shape to a layer of clear cellophane... This is kinda tricky. I'm good at this kind of tedious arranging... But if you aren't I suggest that you print out a pattern of the original drawing and use it as a guide. You can use a needle tool or a small screwdriver to manipulate the cut work.... it's infinitely better than your fingers! :)<br />
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Next you'll spray the correct wire wing section with adhesive also spray the cut work/clear cellophane assembly with adhesive withe the cut work side up...and apply the cut work side to the wire wing. Cut another section of clear cellophane and encase the wire wing. Turn on your iron... And using a TEFLON COVER!!!! I don't think it's possible to do this project without this... If you don't have one experiment with your iron on different settings to see what sealing and god forbid MELTING effects you will achieve... Otherwise use a heat <a href="http://www.save-on-crafts.com/marucemheatt.html" target="_blank">embossing tool.</a><br />
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Once you have all the cut work applied use your iron or heat embossing tool and shrink the cellophane to the wire frame.<br />
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Now... I wanted my wings to have an iridescent effect... You don't have to do this part if you don't want to.... <br />
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Spray the wing<br />
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<center><a href="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/11/2546.jpg"><img border="0" height="281" src="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/11/s_2546.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="210" /></a></center><br />
Apply the iridescent<br />
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<center><a href="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/11/2547.jpg"><img border="0" height="281" src="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/11/s_2547.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="210" /></a></center><br />
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<center><a href="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/11/2548.jpg"><img border="0" height="210" src="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/11/s_2548.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="281" /></a></center><br />
Iron... I messed about with steam for texture.<br />
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<center><a href="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/11/2549.jpg"><img border="0" height="210" src="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/11/s_2549.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="281" /></a></center><br />
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Trim off the extra cellophane.<br />
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<center><a href="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/11/2550.jpg"><img border="0" height="210" src="http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/11/s_2550.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="281" /></a></center><br />
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Now the middle wire section is a mess... So cover it up with some fabric, and bows... And maybe a big ol silk rose. :) mine ties on with ribbon... Mine came from <a href="http://www.ribbonstore.com/" target="_blank">The Ribbon Store</a>... Do go there! <br />
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All done!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JntNUCHcn70/TkPmVhDxncI/AAAAAAAAAQo/AFlJulZQEfM/s1600/IMG_1309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JntNUCHcn70/TkPmVhDxncI/AAAAAAAAAQo/AFlJulZQEfM/s320/IMG_1309.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S1B1z6I5SUY/TkPmQV9fq9I/AAAAAAAAAQk/6mW-682sgdw/s1600/IMG_1308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S1B1z6I5SUY/TkPmQV9fq9I/AAAAAAAAAQk/6mW-682sgdw/s320/IMG_1308.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tDQhoAcvmDg/TkPmmAm3oxI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/CiMCBnGl6X4/s1600/IMG_1312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tDQhoAcvmDg/TkPmmAm3oxI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/CiMCBnGl6X4/s320/IMG_1312.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>I maybe might wear this dress... or make another... we will see! :)<br />
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Posted using BlogPress from my iPhoneTwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-27625095658182947302011-08-02T11:54:00.000-07:002011-08-02T11:54:00.275-07:00The first of three VictoriansI like that title... sounds like a historical romance novel. :) But in this context it's just as it sounds. I need three victorian dresses... and I've just made one.<br />
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I need a gown for the <a href="http://victoriandance.org/">Victorian Grand Ball</a>, a day dress for a <a href="http://www.snlha.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48&Itemid=58">reenactment</a>, and a <a href="http://lacma.wordpress.com/2010/06/21/tennis-anyone-2/">tennis dress</a> for a <a href="http://costumecon30.com/">contest</a>.<br />
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Actually the day dress is practically done... it just needs:<br />
closures<br />
trim<br />
skirt attached<br />
but that's a blog for another day.<br />
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To be honest, the ball gown was going to be a MUCH different dress. I was planning on making a dress from one of my favorite Tissot <a href="http://www.jamestissot.org/The-Fireplace.html">paintings</a>. I have everything to make it... but the weather got hot, and I started thinking that dancing in long sleeves might be a new kind of hell... and opted out. Also, I found a dress on ebay that is so very lovely in it's simplicity, I just had to try my hand at it.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lzJ-F7KErcE/Tjg9SDAEVhI/AAAAAAAAAQU/Kts52YmUK58/s1600/whitewateredback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="155" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lzJ-F7KErcE/Tjg9SDAEVhI/AAAAAAAAAQU/Kts52YmUK58/s400/whitewateredback.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_WZUOcVUubM/Tjg9TrQ1X3I/AAAAAAAAAQY/pSh2yuna_PU/s1600/whitewateredfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_WZUOcVUubM/Tjg9TrQ1X3I/AAAAAAAAAQY/pSh2yuna_PU/s640/whitewateredfront.jpg" width="488" /></a></div><br />
Isn't it lovely? I love how the watered silk makes the statement. I wore off white and gold to last years ball, and only white reads "wedding" to me... although I'm not so sure it did the victorians. Regardless... I couldn't find moire in white. In fact the only watered silk I could find were so expensive I was a bit shocked. I'm a budget costumer. I very rarely go over $20 a yard, and do my best to keep projects under $100. So I was about to give it all up and try to alter the Tissot idea so that the skirt was the same, but with a ball gown bodice, when I found a vintage length of rayon moire... 5 yards! $30. Although I'm a on a budget, fabric content is kinda a big deal to me. So a dilemma. I bought it... because a $30 dress?? and also, buying vintage fabric is good for the environment. Not really sure how... but yah, environment. Plus, it's red. :)<br />
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My finished dress:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zbR_Ab1dUsE/Tjg2FpZqVGI/AAAAAAAAAQE/X7G1i4KazZU/s1600/finishedfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="448" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zbR_Ab1dUsE/Tjg2FpZqVGI/AAAAAAAAAQE/X7G1i4KazZU/s640/finishedfront.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IfcEIDjpH3k/Tjg1txRIDkI/AAAAAAAAAQA/k2VhX_nBmvk/s1600/finishedback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="331" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IfcEIDjpH3k/Tjg1txRIDkI/AAAAAAAAAQA/k2VhX_nBmvk/s640/finishedback.jpg" width="640" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div>It's a pretty dress... and I like it very much. I've ordered some ribbon to add to the shoulders in long bows... and a ribbon for lacing, both in red.<br />
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Next post I'll give you the pattern for the corded petticoat underneath. Also a tutorial for making double, and single piping, and some examples of early victorian ball gowns.TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-74692247401813028042011-06-14T09:35:00.000-07:002011-06-14T10:10:46.856-07:00A Strawberry RecticuleThis post is for a friend of mine that requested this pattern. It's not historically accurate, it's just freaking cute. There are historical hand bags shaped like fruit though, but this pattern is of my own design and uses modern patterning and sewing techniques.<br />
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to make this little bag you will need:<br />
14" x the bolt length of red or pink silk taffeta.<br />
20" x the bolt length of green silk taffeta.<br />
black seed beads<br />
a cord for the draw string<br />
36" of ribbon for handles... I used my green silk to back my trim... just to make it stronger<br />
perhaps a tassel to finish off the bottom of the bag.<br />
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this is the finished bag:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Lrm38OHF99E/TfeJaOMtsgI/AAAAAAAAAO8/KDxIqPdoXh8/s1600/00134za9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Lrm38OHF99E/TfeJaOMtsgI/AAAAAAAAAO8/KDxIqPdoXh8/s320/00134za9.jpg" width="240" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div>The only "tutorial" I'm going to give for this project is to remind you about gussets... the construction isn't difficult but it's important if you want a clean finished project is to START and STOP sewing on the X's... otherwise the bag just won't go together well...<br />
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I didn't mark 5 things on the pattern...<br />
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1. The center line... it runs down the center of the bag pattern piece from tip to tip <br />
2. the placement of the straps... they go inside the bag at the center line about 1/2 underneath drawstring casing.<br />
3. the placement of the eyelet holes for the drawstring... you will place 1 eyelet hole 1/4" on either side of the center line, in the center of the drawstring casing<br />
4. The fact that the lining and the outside fabric DON'T MATCH UP!! They are offset by half... match the edge of the outside fabric to the center line of the lining... you can see this in the picture above.<br />
5. The placement for the seed beads are marked with X's on the pattern.<br />
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and without further ado... Here's the pattern! :D<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/105062078439515528327/TwilaTeeOnAMissionToCostumeTheWorld?authkey=Gv1sRgCPqm3O7I4qWHjgE#5618110287689403186"><img border="0" height="254" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cwXmaqgNRmU/TfeJimaxyzI/AAAAAAAAAPA/13O2Y4fOubo/s320/StrawberryRecticule.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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again just like the last pattern... it's in inches... 1 inch squared.TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-81204713627577921742011-06-09T22:06:00.000-07:002011-06-09T22:21:35.961-07:00Regency Drawn Bonnet... Pattern and Tutorial #3<div style="text-align: left;">At this point in your project you should have...</div><br />
all pieces cut<br />
the tip sewn to it's lining and gaged to 14 7/8<br />
Crown/Brim hemmed and all 13 cording channels done<br />
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The Crown/Brim pattern is marked with a broken line along it's center. The center front, and center back are marked with an X. It's a good idea to fold and press your linen along this line so that when you draw up your cords the center remains straight and the bonnet doesn't become twisted. You can also use your favorite method of marking your fabric (pen, chalk, thread tack.) As your drawing up your cords you can use a straight edge to maintain the center line.<br />
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Now we draw the cording through the channels.<br />
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I used an upholstery needle to do the job. I bought a set of old stock 12" double points on eBay. You could use this tool, or a tapestry needle, a ball pointed bodkin, or a Fast Turn or Quick turn tool.<br />
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It's a simple matter of threading your tool with your crochet cotton and pulling the yarn through it's channel. Do all the channels. Secure one end of the yarn first with a knot and then with either hand sewing, or back tack multiple times on your machine. Now adjust the cords lengths. I gave you the list of cord lengths last post, but here is the list again:<br />
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14 7/8<br />
15 3/4<br />
17 7/8<br />
18<br />
19 3/8<br />
20 5/8<br />
21 1/4<br />
22 1/4<br />
23 7/8<br />
24 5/8<br />
26 7/8<br />
28 1/2<br />
29 5/8<br />
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Once again, just to emphasize, make sure that you maintain the center line and that the cords length is evenly divided between the left and right sides of the center line.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WhQ1tIBQj7Q/TdKUum7jV2I/AAAAAAAAAI8/xVUcmW2DyWs/s1600/IMG_2772.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WhQ1tIBQj7Q/TdKUum7jV2I/AAAAAAAAAI8/xVUcmW2DyWs/s320/IMG_2772.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Once you have got all your cords measured secure the end with a knot and a back tack on the machine or by hand.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now we attach the tip to the Crown/Brim.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The tip has been gaged or cartridge pleated to 14 7/8". As you notice this is the same length as the first cord (neck edge). The center of the tip should be marked with an X... or a pin, the C.B of the Crown/Brim is marked with an X. The X on the Crown/Brim C.B is on the cord, NOT on the fabrics edge. This is because the fabrics edge is in fact a ruffle. You will be sewing the gaged tip to the Crown/Brim along the first cord.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next we will gather the tips neck edge. Mark the center of the tips neck edge (this will be the placement of ties C.B seam) The neck edges total length is 3 1/2"</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next gather the last 3 cords on the Crown/Brim to 1"(these are the longest cords, the face edge cords)... obviously do this on both sides. :D. Sorry, no picture.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now you'll attach the tie.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Use a 1/2 seam allowance to attach the tie. With right sides together, match the ties C.B seam to the tips C.B. at X.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LoP0UBHy1w0/TdKU5dp8C5I/AAAAAAAAAJ0/HE5Tusn44_Y/s1600/IMG_2786.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LoP0UBHy1w0/TdKU5dp8C5I/AAAAAAAAAJ0/HE5Tusn44_Y/s320/IMG_2786.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Now with your 1/8 rolled hem foot roll both sides of the ties edges that WON'T be attached to the bonnet... you should over lap the rolled hem and the 1/2" seam allowance a bit (and inch or so on either side??) so that the ties edge doesn't come unraveled there. This area will take the most strain because this is the place that the tie will be tied and untied every time you put the bonnet on.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Fro995wcoKQ/TdKU6vkoUyI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/riYmeUzyVEI/s1600/IMG_2787.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Fro995wcoKQ/TdKU6vkoUyI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/riYmeUzyVEI/s320/IMG_2787.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Rolled hem foot tip:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finger press the first fold in your fabric (about an inch in length), place your material under your foot and lower your needle into the pre-rolled section, raise the foot and pull the pre folded edge into your rolled hem foot. Make sure the pressure is set high on the pressure foot dial... this is so that your fabric doesn't slip around inside of the foot and make your rolled hem larger than you wanted. Or worse yet unevenly hemmed, or the fabric coming completely out of the foot and not making a hem at all.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The last thing to do is to finish off the tie. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The tie does double duty as closure and neck edge facing. All of the raw edges from the Crown/Brim, tip, and tie are folded up neatly into the tie. Just fold over the seam allowance and place the folded edge to to the line of stitching that attached the tie to the bonnet. Use a hand whip stitch to attach the tie to the inside of the bonnet.</div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I added extra ties to my bonnet... I use them for my victorian bonnets and it really helps to keep the bonnet in place. Use a thin cord for the extra tie. The cord tie holds the bonnet in place and lets the real tie look pretty tied loosely. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The last thing you'll do is starch the bonnet. Use liquid starch and press the bonnet's Brim/Crown flat. The stiffer the bonnets brim the better!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-968qB-q-Tto/TdKVGM6gpMI/AAAAAAAAAKk/wSb1mQB_Wig/s1600/IMG_2839.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-968qB-q-Tto/TdKVGM6gpMI/AAAAAAAAAKk/wSb1mQB_Wig/s320/IMG_2839.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bsqac7a4tTU/TdKVIpABjlI/AAAAAAAAAKs/SjPAcHUcfI0/s1600/IMG_2841.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bsqac7a4tTU/TdKVIpABjlI/AAAAAAAAAKs/SjPAcHUcfI0/s320/IMG_2841.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">So, that's that! You made a completely ridiculous bonnet! :D good times!</div>TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-42776375736385621052011-06-05T12:35:00.000-07:002011-06-05T12:49:54.793-07:00Regency Drawn Bonnet... Pattern and Tutorial Part 2Once you have all pieces cut, the construction is simple enough... if not tedious.<br />
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First, you will need the tip. Sorry (my bad) I didn't label my pattern pieces. The tip is the circular piece that is cut on the fold. You'll need that cut of linen and of some kind of sheer, stiff material. I used silk organza, but organdy would work. Using a 1/2" seam allowance sew together the tip and lining together along it's outside edge. Leave the straight edge... this is the neck edge... unsewn.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FSfQW-h2OqA/TdKUveohsuI/AAAAAAAAAJA/enjhoyp_-fk/s1600/IMG_2773.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FSfQW-h2OqA/TdKUveohsuI/AAAAAAAAAJA/enjhoyp_-fk/s320/IMG_2773.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>Trim off the seam allowance and turn the tip right side out, using the neck edge (the straight edge) as your access point.<br />
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If your good at whip gathers you don't need to do this, but if your like me and have a hard time keeping your whip gathers consistent and estimating the amount of fabric each stitch needs along the fabrics length, you might want to do like me and cartridge pleat instead. The outside (rounded) edge of the tip needs to be condensed into 14 7/8". If you'd like to learn about whip gathering check out <a href="http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/index.html">Katherine's Dress Site</a>. She's got a tutorial in there somewhere. :) Alternatively here is a <a href="http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/blog/how-to-cartridge-pleating">tutorial</a> on Cartridge Pleating... it's also called gaging.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XumorXouLEA/TdKUwREy6wI/AAAAAAAAAJI/9CGftcEcJ30/s1600/IMG_2775.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XumorXouLEA/TdKUwREy6wI/AAAAAAAAAJI/9CGftcEcJ30/s320/IMG_2775.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GkNl8QyGSVc/TdKUxlOm-RI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/kXri01D8Y6w/s1600/IMG_2777.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GkNl8QyGSVc/TdKUxlOm-RI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/kXri01D8Y6w/s320/IMG_2777.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lZJNPrzC8GM/TdKUyLLo2VI/AAAAAAAAAJU/nn2KCSQi3X0/s1600/IMG_2778.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lZJNPrzC8GM/TdKUyLLo2VI/AAAAAAAAAJU/nn2KCSQi3X0/s320/IMG_2778.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>The pin there is marking the center of the tip. <br />
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Now on to the tedious task of making the cording channels and running the cording. It's not hard... just time consuming, and monotonous.<br />
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I did all of this on my sewing machine... because I'm a costumer, NOT a reenactor. If your wanting a highly researched and documented project, your reading the wrong journal. I've invested quite a bit of money in my machines and I'm going to use them, and I'm not even a little bit sorry about that. My methods get the "look" and the "feel" of the costume... but aren't museum pieces. If I can get the look I'm after with the machine I will use it. If I can't I'll do it by hand. I try to do you all a solid though by saying "this could be done by hand using (blah blah blah) method." So yah, as always... grain of salt girls.<br />
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If your freaking CRAZY you can make the channels by hand. You can also do the UBER TINY <a href="http://sewing.about.com/library/sewnews/qa/aaqa0101c.htm">rolled hems</a> by hand as well. **blink blink** the channels are done by placing the cording down as you go, you would fold the fabric over your cord and using a <a href="http://sewing.about.com/library/weekly/aa040905.htm">running stitch</a> sew through two layers of fabric thus creating a channel. <br />
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To prepare the Brim/Crown first roll hem the neck edge and the face edge. Use a very small rolled hem. I've given 1/4 of an inch for seam allowance this is just enough for an 1/8 rolled hem. If you don't have a tiny rolled hem foot... cut your brim out with extra seam allowance so that the hem doesn't eat up too much fabric.<br />
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The Brim/Crown is marked with 13 cording channels. To make the cording channels fold the Brim/Crown along the line and sew using 1/8 seam allowance. This will make a 1/4 channel. Make 1/4 channels on each of the 13 cording channels marked on the Brim/Crown pattern.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JB4FO9rZGX0/TdKUoDpXH2I/AAAAAAAAAIk/pl8Aku_hxhM/s1600/IMG_2761.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JB4FO9rZGX0/TdKUoDpXH2I/AAAAAAAAAIk/pl8Aku_hxhM/s320/IMG_2761.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>You can see how I marked my channels in this picture... I laid the linen over my pattern and marked my channels with pencil.<br />
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Ok... my family is begging me to do fun family stuff... they want to make a garden. So next time will be inserting the cording, attaching Tip to Brim/Crown, and attaching the tie.<br />
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Before I forget though, because I know many of you have made this kind of thing before, here is the list of the cording lengths. I'm starting at the neck edge (shortest length) and working out to the face edge. (longest length)<br />
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14 7/8<br />
15 3/4<br />
17 7/8<br />
18<br />
19 3/8<br />
20 5/8<br />
21 1/4<br />
22 1/4<br />
23 7/8<br />
24 5/8<br />
26 7/8<br />
28 1/2<br />
29 5/8<br />
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Until next time my sweets. :)TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-19563905179149047992011-06-03T13:54:00.000-07:002011-06-03T18:14:18.338-07:00Regency Drawn Bonnet... Pattern and TutorialSorry that's its taken me so long to start this tutorial. Better late than never I guess. :)<br />
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I'm not the best at photoshop, sorry if the pattern is blotchy. I simply scanned my pellon pattern multiple times and saved them as one big image. The pellon is printed with 1x1 squares. (no idea what that means in metric!) You can either print it on a transparency and scale it up that way, or if your good, print it out and tape it together with your printer, or you can do the tried and true, "<a href="http://tohowdo.co.cc/3823-how-to-enlarge-a-drawing-using-a-grid.html">draw by grid</a>" like we learned in school. :)<br />
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This is my pattern:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zX2HymkwWD_V3Lcz-oeQ0qsrxG7xjoHdLyzeAsW_WHs?feat=directlink"><img border="0" height="167" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MBvOnz-e--U/TelABHxfKuI/AAAAAAAAAOI/OEvQ_t69vyk/s400/RegencyBonnet.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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To make this bonnet you will need:<br />
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finely woven linen about 3/4 of a yard<br />
a remnant of silk organza, or fine cotton organdy about 15 x 15 inches square<br />
a hank of <a href="http://www.elmore-pisgah.com/">peaches and creme crochet cotton</a><br />
a bodkin, tapestry needle or upholstery needle, or a long piece of craft wire 24" folded in half. (this is the tool you will need to pull the crochet cotton cording through it's channels.<br />
a 1/8" rolled hem foot... you can of course do this by hand.<br />
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I don't include a pattern piece for the tie. So in explanation, the tie is a 4" wide length of linen fabric, 80" long... it's two 40 1/2" pieces with a seam at the center back (1/2" seam allow). The center front edges have been turned under in such a way that the edge is pointed.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QwkQMgeZoFI/TelE4njZRyI/AAAAAAAAAOM/CP8c0pFFei8/s1600/IMG_2795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QwkQMgeZoFI/TelE4njZRyI/AAAAAAAAAOM/CP8c0pFFei8/s320/IMG_2795.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Where the bonnet is attached to the hat... 9 1/4 on either side of the C.B seam (18 1/2" total) the tie is folded in half with a 1/2 seam allowance attaching the tie to the hat. The total width of the tie will be 1.5". The remaining length of fabric 21 1/2" will have it's raw edges finished with an 1/8 rolled hem foot. You should over lap the rolled hem into the area that is attached to the hat. <br />
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I'm going to leave off there.... time to pick the kiddo up from school! This is enough to get you started though. Those of you who've made projects like this before don't need the rest and those that haven't can at least get everything cut out before our next installment... hopefully tomorrow! :)TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-18007538537332299582011-05-17T11:18:00.000-07:002011-05-17T11:21:56.178-07:00A Corded Bonnet from "Napoleon and the Empire of Fashion"I have a terrible love of books. It's a bit obsessive really. I got myself a kindle so that my fictions books wouldn't drown me... death by paperback, that's a bad way to go out. But I still buy "flesh and blood" fashion books. One of the more (if not MOST) fabulous fashion books I have acquired lately has been <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/8857206505?ref_=sr_1_1&s=books&qid=1305649807&sr=1-1">"Napoleon and the Empire of Fashion"</a><br />
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</a></div>Watch out... there is nudity. Regardless, the fashions in this book are so fabulous all is forgiven.<br />
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I've earmarked several gowns and whatnot to be copied. The first of the whatnots is a corded bonnet.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eIGsatNGYCQ/TdKi-RLrwuI/AAAAAAAAAK8/opqtDDwADK0/s1600/IMG_2758.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eIGsatNGYCQ/TdKi-RLrwuI/AAAAAAAAAK8/opqtDDwADK0/s320/IMG_2758.JPG" width="240" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">What I feel is the most interesting thing about this hat is that it's completely make-able. There's no material used in this project that is unattainable, the pattern is simple, but the overall affect is intricate, and quintessentially regency. The ruff doesn't hurt in the sillness factor... OMG. She looks like one of those fancy dancy chickens that Martha Stewart blah blah blahs about. yah... That stupid ruff is going to get made.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I can't be the only costumer that thinks these things about historical costume. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Anyway...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I've made several hats in my jaunts in Historical Costuming... What I've noticed about Pre-Victorian bonnets is that the patterns have 2 and 3 pattern pieces... Brim/Crown, Tip, or Brim, Crown, Tip. There's off-shoots of this idea, but for the most part, this corded bonnet is a Capot (the tip is soft) and it's a 2 pattern piece design. The design is cunning though, because the Brim/Crown flares out toward the face opening like a trumpet but only used one pattern piece to do this. Later in that century 1840's & 50's this design would become the cottage bonnet (it lost it's outward trumpet like flare) and a bit earlier, in the 1820's-30's the brim would remain flared, but the crown would elongate the tip would be hard... this would be called a Stovepipe and a Poke bonnet and would use 3 pattern pieces to achieve that flared shape.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mBPiRSOwNR0/TdK4CPzTI3I/AAAAAAAAANs/11o6W-7bkrw/s1600/Bonnetmontage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="448" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mBPiRSOwNR0/TdK4CPzTI3I/AAAAAAAAANs/11o6W-7bkrw/s640/Bonnetmontage.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I made the Stovepipe the Cottage and the Capote... the Poke is not mine.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Pattern List:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/64358572/regency-stovepipe-bonnet-pattern">Stovepipe</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://timelytresses.com/Mid-century%20bonnets/1840-1849/arabellagrace.html">Cottage</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The Capote is my pattern... I made a tutorial... uh, somewhere on the interwebs... :)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/romanticbonnet.html">Poke</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Tomorrow, I'll post a tutorial, and the pattern for my corded bonnet... but for now here is the finish project! :)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9FzYUHgDTo0/TdKjmcXiVqI/AAAAAAAAANg/YY3hAevrjfI/s1600/IMG_2840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9FzYUHgDTo0/TdKjmcXiVqI/AAAAAAAAANg/YY3hAevrjfI/s320/IMG_2840.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-9070708553341744122011-04-30T21:08:00.000-07:002011-04-30T21:11:45.522-07:00A Polonaise from 1780I just finished a 1780's polonaise. It's very loosely based off of this one, from the V&A:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>I like how the skirt is pulled up over the outside of the skirt. Also how there is trim along the skirts hem. I like the pinked ruffle on this petticoat from the Met.<br />
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I found some lovely silk and linen blend in L.A's garment district the last time I was there. It's embriodered in a tambor-ish style. I also found some not very slubby dupioni silk to make the petticoat. I had 20 yards of embriodered lace trim to use along the skirts hem and to trim the bodice. So it was easy enough to make this little polonaise. I used J.P. Ryan's <a href="http://www.jpryan.com/details/anglaise.html">anglaise</a> pattern.<br />
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Here is the finished dress:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cicqYsqty6o/TbzMVQ6CDVI/AAAAAAAAAH8/00Hd6xFiYCY/s1600/IMG_1260.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NO5Ak_pa78s/TbzZ5XqQLHI/AAAAAAAAAIM/EC6yhlVP_X8/s1600/frontpolonaise.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="428" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NO5Ak_pa78s/TbzZ5XqQLHI/AAAAAAAAAIM/EC6yhlVP_X8/s640/frontpolonaise.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qKOkJgy6bRk/TbzL0DasjeI/AAAAAAAAAHc/-SiipjGyjCQ/s1600/IMG_1236.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4X3GZyXavyg/TbzMI2uplBI/AAAAAAAAAHw/HM1Ppmq-450/s1600/IMG_1251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5JRbTZ0Zq0I/TbzaIEEnSII/AAAAAAAAAIQ/EwzAp4ssYCk/s1600/backpolonaise.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="432" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5JRbTZ0Zq0I/TbzaIEEnSII/AAAAAAAAAIQ/EwzAp4ssYCk/s640/backpolonaise.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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</a></div>The bodice closes with pins.<br />
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</div>To make this pinked and flounce petticoat I made myself a jig, used pinking shears to do the cutting and brushed the raw edges with <a href="http://store.junetailor.com/store/p-127-fray-block.aspx">Fray Block</a>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DQOmx43jr0o/TbzbszlAkLI/AAAAAAAAAIU/vp7K6xlHobc/s1600/001d1ffr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DQOmx43jr0o/TbzbszlAkLI/AAAAAAAAAIU/vp7K6xlHobc/s400/001d1ffr.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8vIfbb99jgQ/TbzMYfYWU1I/AAAAAAAAAIA/Zm56-jAzNx0/s1600/IMG_1261.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8vIfbb99jgQ/TbzMYfYWU1I/AAAAAAAAAIA/Zm56-jAzNx0/s400/IMG_1261.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2191369268909410237.post-74834141133677240152011-04-27T11:41:00.000-07:002011-04-27T11:41:54.667-07:00Pin-up Shopping<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5Lx6C20AzkA/TbhfDKNlywI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/auKkK4f8_N8/s1600/RockingBettie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5Lx6C20AzkA/TbhfDKNlywI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/auKkK4f8_N8/s320/RockingBettie.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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So if you'd like to buy one of the petticoats that I've been showing you all to make.... :)<br />
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The owner there is an old friend of mine. I'll be doing alterations, custom builds, and helping the owner get together her own fashion line.<br />
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Kinda exciting!TwilaTeehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10841928423443087985noreply@blogger.com1